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The Amalfi coast tumbling to the sea, Campania

Campania

Campania crowds the Tyrrhenian shore of southern Italy with more drama per kilometer than almost anywhere on earth.

Go in April to June and September to October.

Fly into
Naples (NAP)
Capital
Naples
Size
13,671 km² (5,278 sq mi), about the size of Connecticut
People
5.6 million

Vesuvius broods over the Bay of Naples, the volcano that froze Pompeii and Herculaneum in a single afternoon of 79 AD. Offshore lie the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, and to the south the Amalfi Coast threads its impossible road between cliff and water, past Positano, Ravello and Amalfi itself.

The Campanian character is loud, generous and theatrical, nowhere more than in Naples, where the espresso is short and the talk is fast. This is the home of true Neapolitan pizza, of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana still warm from the dairies of Paestum, of Pasta di Gragnano and the lemons of Sorrento that perfume every glass of limoncello.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the coast is warm but the crowds have thinned and the lemon groves hang heavy above the sea.

What to see in Campania

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Naples, Ravello
At least
3 nights
Within a day out
7 of these 8
Length of your trip

3 nights in Campania: Naples for 2 and Ravello for 1.5 nights in Campania: Naples for 3 and Ravello for 2.7 nights in Campania: Naples for 3, Capri for 2 and Ravello for 2.10 nights in Campania: Ischia for 2, Naples for 3, Capri for 2 and Ravello for 3.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

IschiaNaplesCapriRavello

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Where to stay in Campania

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. The largest island in the Bay of Naples, a green volcanic dome famous for its thermal spas and hot springs.

    Its emblem is the Castello Aragonese, a fortress crowning a rocky islet linked to the town by a causeway.

  2. 35 km from Ischia as the crow flies

    Naples

    2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Naples

    A small guest-room house on Via Duomo, a minute from the Duomo tram and metro stops, for a simple base near Spaccanapoli.

    Check dates: Neocore
    More in Naples
  3. 35 km from Naples as the crow flies

    The glamorous limestone island off the Sorrentine Peninsula, a magnet for the jet set since Roman emperors built their villas here.

    Day out
    Anacapri

    Boats slip into the Blue Grotto's electric-blue cave, and the three Faraglioni sea stacks rise from the water off Punta Tragara.

  4. 35 km from Naples as the crow flies

    35 km from Capri as the crow flies

    Ravello

    1 night2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Ravello

    The Amalfi Coast's serene aerie, set high above the sea on a ridge of gardens.

    Day out
    Pompeii · Positano · Amalfi

    Belmond's hotel in a medieval palace in Ravello, with frescoed interiors, terraces over the sea and a pool hanging above the coast.

    Check dates: Caruso
    More in Ravello
Other places to stay

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Rabbit pieces braised with cherry tomatoes and herbs in a shallow casserole.

A traditional dinner from Campania

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. Antipasto

    Pizza di scarola

    A covered Neapolitan bread pie filled with tender escarole, black olives, capers and anchovies.

    5 hr 45 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Gnocchi alla sorrentina

    Potato gnocchi bake briefly with tomato, basil and fiordilatte, leaving soft dumplings beneath patches of melted, golden cheese.

    35 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Coniglio all’ischitana

    Ischia’s rabbit, browned in olive oil and gently braised with white wine, cherry tomatoes, garlic and thyme.

    1 hr 40 min

  4. Side

    Gattò di patate

    A Neapolitan potato bake with a centre of cooked ham, Salame Napoli and Caciocavallo, under a golden breadcrumb crust.

    2 hr 55 min · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Torta caprese

    A dark almond-and-chocolate cake with a fine crust and a moist, close crumb.

    3 hr 10 min · make ahead

Start the Pizza di scarola first: 5 hr 45 min.

Taste it there

A food walk through Naples

Naples · 3h

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

Positano tumbling to the sea on the Amalfi Coast

What Campania is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. The silver altar and reliquary bust of San Gennaro in the Chapel of the Treasure

    Three times a year Naples waits in its cathedral for an ampoule of clotted blood to turn liquid, and the bells tell the city when it does.

  2. The sculpted interior of the Sansevero Chapel, with the Veiled Christ lit at its centre

    Sanmartino cut the Veiled Christ from one block of marble, shroud and all, so finely that Naples long whispered the prince had turned cloth to stone by alchemy.

  3. Sfusato lemons on a plate, one cut lengthways

    Sfusato lemons ripen on terraces above Amalfi, and growers still carry the crop down thousands of stone steps by hand.

Terredora di Paolo vines on a hillside in Irpinia

An inland chapter in Irpinia

Irpinia gives a Campania journey an inland wine chapter. Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo connect different wines with specific names and places. They are a useful starting point beyond the coast, while the vineyards of Vesuvius and the islands belong to other landscapes and deserve separate attention.

Wines from Campania
Bottles to find
Sources and citations (2)
  1. Campania: Storia, paesaggi e vini - Italia.it
  2. Campania: History, landscapes and wines - Italia.it

Naples’ Christmas table gives you several starting points: pizza di scarola for the Vigilia, minestra maritata with meat and winter greens, and honey-coated struffoli to finish. They are separate preparations, not a compulsory sequence for every family. Choose a manageable menu, then make time for the Nativity workshops of San Gregorio Armeno if your Christmas journey includes the city.

  • Molise

    Italy's quietest region, where Samnite ruins and Roman towns sleep among wheat fields.

  • Basilicata

    Basilicata, the ancient Lucania, is Italy's least-visited mainland region, a wild interior of stone towns crowned by Matera and its cave-carved Sassi.

  • Abruzzo

    Italy's wild green heart, where wolves and bears still roam national parks beneath the Apennines' highest peaks.

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