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Basilicata, explored in full.

Basilicata fills the arch of the Italian boot, a landlocked land save for two short coasts, a sliver of Tyrrhenian cliff at Maratea and a low Ionian shore in the south.

The interior is almost entirely mountain and hill, from the wooded slopes of the Pollino, Italy's largest national park, to the extinct volcano of Monte Vulture and the sandstone pinnacles of the Dolomiti Lucane. The Romans called it Lucania, and the older name still carries the region's proud, austere character.

This is one of the last quiet corners of the peninsula, a place of stone villages and wide silence. At its heart stands Matera, whose Sassi, the cave dwellings carved into a ravine, passed from a byword for poverty to a UNESCO World Heritage Site and European Capital of Culture. The Lucanian table is frugal and forceful, built on bread, peperoni cruschi, the crisp dried sweet peppers, and the deep red Aglianico del Vulture grown on volcanic soil.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the highlands are walkable and the hill towns belong to those who climb them.

The Lucanian Dolomites above Castelmezzano in Basilicata

The Lucanian table is frugal and forceful, built on bread, peperoni cruschi, the crisp dried sweet peppers, and the deep red Aglianico del Vulture grown on volcanic soil.

Where to base yourself

Craco, Basilicata, Italy

Craco

An abandoned hill town rising on a pedestal of clay badlands, emptied after a landslide in 1963. Its roofless houses and lone tower have made it a haunting film location, a ghost town frozen above the calanchi.

The Craco guide

Sleeping in Basilicata

Well-reviewed places to stay, each checked open, by town.

The abandoned hill town of Craco on its clay pedestal, Basilicata

Craco Vecchia Historic Settlement

Basilicata's abandoned hill town, evacuated after a 1963 landslide and visited today only by guided tour.

Read the guide

Eating and drinking in Basilicata

Well-loved everyday tables and Michelin stars, each checked open.

Michelin-starred

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