Calabria occupies the long, mountainous toe of the Italian peninsula, washed on one side by the Tyrrhenian and on the other by the Ionian, with the Strait of Messina narrowing toward Sicily.
Two great uplands define its interior: the high pine forests and lakes of the Sila, where snow falls in the deep south, and the rugged Aspromonte rising steeply behind the coast. Between them lie 800 kilometers of shoreline, from the cliffs of Tropea to the fishing houses of Scilla.
This is one of Italy's oldest inhabited corners, settled by Greeks who left their mark from Reggio to Crotone, the city of Pythagoras. The Calabrese character is proud and fiercely hospitable, and the table runs hot, with 'nduja, the spreadable chilli salami, alongside soppressata, Caciocavallo Silano cheese and the citrus that grows nowhere else as it does here, the bergamot of Reggio and the great cedri of the Tyrrhenian coast.
Come in late spring or early autumn, when the sea is warm, the mountains are walkable and the coastal towns belong to those who linger.
This is one of Italy's oldest inhabited corners, settled by Greeks who left their mark from Reggio to Crotone, the city of Pythagoras.
Where to base yourself
Catanzaro
Calabria's regional capital sits high on a ridge between two ravines, looking out over the Ionian Sea from the narrow waist of the peninsula. A working hilltop city of viaducts and steep lanes, far removed from the resort coast.
The Catanzaro guide
Tropea
Calabria's most famous resort, a cliff-top old town poised above white-sand beaches and clear Tyrrhenian water, with Stromboli smoking on the horizon.
Stilo
Reggio Calabria
The city on the Strait of Messina, its waterfront promenade facing Sicily across the water and home of the bergamot orchards.
Pizzo
A Tyrrhenian town stacked above the sea, famous for tartufo, the chocolate-cored gelato ball invented here.
Sleeping in Calabria
Well-reviewed places to stay, each checked open, by town.
- La Dolce Vita in TropeaTropea
- Sui Generis Tropea Luxury RoomsTropea
- Residenza Tropea Luxury & CharmTropea
- Pm hotelCatanzaro
- Popilia Country ResortPizzo
- Hotel della PiazzaPizzo
- Casa AngelieriPizzo
- Best Western Plus Hotel Perla del PortoCatanzaro
- B&B "Nido degli Ulivi"Catanzaro
- Hotel ContinentalReggio Calabria
What to see first
Tropea
A clifftop old town above pale beaches, with Santa Maria dell’Isola offshore and the famous red onion.
Read the guide
Eating and drinking in Calabria
Well-loved everyday tables and Michelin stars, each checked open.
- Pepe NeroPizzo · Trattoria
- Da RibaudoTropea · Pizzeria
- La dispensa by bocaTropea · Trattoria
- Diamante Rosso TropeaTropea · Trattoria
- Hedò Ristorante on the beachPizzo · Trattoria
- Pizzeria Da DaniloCatanzaro · Pizzeria
- Magna Urban Pizza LabCatanzaro · Pizzeria
- Pizzeria L'AuroraPizzo · Pizzeria
- Slurperie BistrotCatanzaro · Osteria
- Osteria Cavallaro 1999 di Cavallaro GiovanniReggio Calabria · Osteria
Michelin-starred
- Abbruzzino Oltre ★
- Dattilo ★
- Gambero Rosso ★
- Hyle ★
- Qafiz ★
The year in Calabria
The rituals, races, and processions the region still keeps.
A letter from Italy, once a month.
The places, tables and makers we found worth your time. One email, no noise.
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