Sicily, explored in full.

Greeks raised temples at Agrigento and Segesta and a theatre at Syracuse where Aeschylus once premiered his tragedies. Arabs and Normans together built the gold-mosaic chapels of Palermo and Monreale, three cultures fused in a single room. After the earthquake of 1693, the southeast rose again in honey-colored Baroque at Noto, Ragusa and Modica.

Over it all looms Etna, Europe's tallest active volcano, its black slopes given over to vineyards and citrus. The Sicilian table is its own argument for coming: arancini and panelle from the street markets, pistacchio di Bronte, the almonds of Avola, blood oranges, and sweet Marsala and Passito di Pantelleria to finish.

Come in spring, when the almond trees blossom around the temples, or in early autumn, when the sea is still warm and the festivals fill the squares.