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The Sassi of Matera glowing in Basilicata

Basilicata

Basilicata fills the arch of the Italian boot, a landlocked land save for two short coasts, a sliver of Tyrrhenian cliff at Maratea and a low Ionian shore in the south.

Go in May to June and September, for warm days and lighter crowds.

Capital
Potenza
Size
10,073 km² (3,889 sq mi)
People
537,000

The interior is almost entirely mountain and hill, from the wooded slopes of the Pollino, Italy's largest national park, to the extinct volcano of Monte Vulture and the sandstone pinnacles of the Dolomiti Lucane. The Romans called it Lucania, and the older name still carries the region's proud, austere character.

This is one of the last quiet corners of the peninsula, a place of stone villages and wide silence. At its heart stands Matera, whose Sassi, the cave dwellings carved into a ravine, passed from a byword for poverty to a UNESCO World Heritage Site and European Capital of Culture. The Lucanian table is frugal and forceful, built on bread, peperoni cruschi, the crisp dried sweet peppers, and the deep red Aglianico del Vulture grown on volcanic soil.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the highlands are walkable and the hill towns belong to those who climb them.

What to see in Basilicata

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Pietrapertosa, Matera
At least
3 nights
Within a day out
7 of these 8
Length of your trip

3 nights in Basilicata: Pietrapertosa for 1 and Matera for 2.5 nights in Basilicata: Pietrapertosa for 2 and Matera for 3.7 nights in Basilicata: Venosa for 2, Pietrapertosa for 2 and Matera for 3.10 nights in Basilicata: Venosa for 3, Pietrapertosa for 3 and Matera for 4.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

VenosaPietrapertosaMatera

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Where to stay in Basilicata

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. Venosa is a municipality in Basilicata, in Potenza province and the northern Vulture area.

    Day out
    Melfi
  2. 55 km from Venosa as the crow flies

    Pietrapertosa is a municipality in Potenza province, Basilicata.

  3. 50 km from Pietrapertosa as the crow flies

    Matera

    2 nights3 nights4 nights

    Check dates in Matera

    Basilicata's cave city: Sassi districts, about 150 rock-cut churches, and a UNESCO landscape emptied by law in the 1950s, repopulated by choice from the 1980s on.

    Day out
    Craco

    Hotel Il Belvedere Matera

    Restored cave houses high in Sasso Caveoso, some under tufa vaults, with a broad terrace over both Sassi that shines at night.

    More in Matera
Other places to stay

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Pasturale sheep stew with potatoes, chicory and sausage in a deep bowl

A traditional dinner from Basilicata

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. Antipasto

    Rafanata

    A baked Basilicata egg dish with mashed potatoes, aged Canestrato di Moliterno and freshly grated horseradish, finished with a golden crust.

    2 hr 20 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Strascinati con Peperoni Cruschi

    Basilicata’s dragged pasta with its crowning glory: Senise peppers flash-fried to a crimson crackle, crumbled over garlic oil and breadcrumbs.

    1 hr 20 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Pasturale di pecora: Basilicata sheep stew

    Slow-simmered sheep shoulder with potatoes, chicory and onion, finished with fresh pork sausage and small pieces of pecorino.

    4 hr 20 min · make ahead

  4. Side

    Ciambotta Lucana

    Basilicata’s summer vegetable stew: peppers, eggplant, potatoes, and tomatoes cooked separately, then married. The garden in one pot, without the mush.

    1 hr 35 min · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Calzoncelli di castagne

    Fried Lucanian pastries filled with chestnuts, dark chocolate and cooked grape must.

    2 hr 30 min · make ahead

  6. What to pour

    A young Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata’s great red: its acidity balances the sweetness of the peppers and the generous oil.

    Aglianico

Start the Pasturale di pecora first: 4 hr 20 min.

Taste it there

Cook on a farm outside Matera

Matera · 4h

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

The sandstone spires of the Lucanian Dolomites at dusk

What Basilicata is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. A flyer on the Volo dell'Angelo cable above Castelmezzano and its rock spires

    Clip in at Pietrapertosa, drop into the void at up to 120 km/h, and land in Castelmezzano about 1,400 metres later, the valley far below.

  2. The towered walls of Melfi Castle on its green hill at sunset

    Inside these walls Frederick II issued the Constitutions of Melfi, the great law code of the Middle Ages, and the ten towers still stand.

  3. Dried Senise peppers, deep red and wrinkled

    Threaded by needle and twine into necklaces, Senise peppers dry in the sun on balcony rails, and that drying alone gives them their crunch.

Terraced vine rows and grassy banks at Elena Fucci’s Titolo vineyard

Around the extinct Vulture

The extinct Vulture gives northern Basilicata a distinct wine landscape. Aglianico del Vulture connects vines with the volcano’s slopes and surrounding settlements, including Barile, Rionero and Venosa. Choose this area as one chapter of the region, allowing the working countryside to sit beside its castles and archaeological places.

Wines from Basilicata
Sources and citations (2)
  1. Vulture, from Prehistoric Times to the Golden Age - Basilicata Turistica
  2. Aglianico del Vulture DOC and DOCG - Basilicata Turistica

Baccalà with peperoni cruschi and chestnut-filled calzoncelli give a Christmas menu two distinct Lucanian preparations. The fish dish pairs soft salt cod with crisp dried peppers; the pastries close a dark chestnut-and-chocolate filling inside thin dough. Plan their separate cooking stages before choosing more courses. For a visit to Matera, check the programme of any seasonal performance independently from the ordinary town visit.

  • Puglia

    Puglia is the long, sun-bleached heel of Italy's boot, ribboned by 800 kilometers of coast and silver olive groves.

  • Campania

    Campania is Italy at full volume, where Vesuvius looms over Naples and the Amalfi Coast falls in pastel terraces to a turquoise sea.

  • Molise

    Italy's quietest region, where Samnite ruins and Roman towns sleep among wheat fields.

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