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A lake town on the shore of Como, Lombardy

Lombardy

Lombardy is Italy's engine room and, just as quietly, one of its great storehouses of art.

Go in April to June and September to October.

Fly into
Milan Malpensa (MXP), Milan Linate (LIN), Bergamo (BGY)
Capital
Milan
Size
23,864 km² (9,214 sq mi), about the size of New Hampshire
People
10 million

Milan sets the pace, fashion, finance and the marble forest of its Duomo, but the region spreads north into a landscape of improbable beauty. Lake Como branches between mountains hung with villas and gardens, Lake Garda widens toward the Veneto, and the Valtellina climbs into the Alps in terraces of Nebbiolo vines.

Between lake and metropolis lie the art cities, walled Bergamo on its hill, Gonzaga Mantua ringed by water, Cremona where Stradivari shaped the violin. The Lombard table is northern and generous, butter and rice over oil, risotto alla milanese stained gold with saffron, buckwheat pizzoccheri from the high valleys, and cheeses that read like a roll-call: Gorgonzola, Taleggio, Grana Padano, Bitto.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the lakes soften, the Franciacorta vineyards turn and Milan empties enough to breathe.

What to see in Lombardy

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Milan, Sirmione, Mantua
At least
10 nights
Within a day out
7 of these 8
Length of your trip

3 nights in Lombardy: Bellagio for 1 and Milan for 2.5 nights in Lombardy: Bellagio for 2 and Milan for 3.7 nights in Lombardy: Bellagio for 2, Milan for 3 and Sirmione for 2.10 nights in Lombardy: Bellagio for 3, Milan for 3, Sirmione for 2 and Mantua for 2.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

BellagioMilanSirmioneMantua

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Where to stay in Lombardy

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. Bellagio

    1 night2 nights3 nights

    Check dates in Bellagio

    The Pearl of Lake Como, perched where the lake forks into its two southern branches.

    Day out
    Varenna

    Steep stepped lanes climb between villas and gardens, and the Villa Melzi grounds run an English-style garden along the shore, ablaze with azaleas in spring.

  2. 60 km from Bellagio as the crow flies

    Milan

    2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Milan

    Italy's capital of fashion and finance, where the Duomo's marble spires rise over the Galleria's glass dome and La Scala raises the curtain each December.

    Day out
    Monza · Pavia
    The stone-arched entrance to Four Seasons Hotel Milano on Via Gesù.

    A fifteenth-century convent turned hotel on a pedestrian street in the fashion district, with frescoes, vaulted ceilings, a garden and an indoor pool.

    Check dates: Four Seasons Hotel Milano
    More in Milan
  3. 110 km from Milan as the crow flies

    A spa town on a slender peninsula reaching into Lake Garda, entered across a drawbridge into the moated Scaliger Castle.

    Day out
    Brescia

    At the peninsula's tip lie the Grotte di Catullo, the sprawling ruins of the largest Roman villa in northern Italy, set among ancient olive trees.

  4. 40 km from Sirmione as the crow flies

    A Renaissance city ringed by three lakes of the Mincio, shaped over centuries by the Gonzaga court.

    Day out
    Sabbioneta

    A three-room bed and breakfast in a restored eighteenth-century house, with a seasonal pool and home-style dinners with changing menus.

    Check dates: La Celeste Galeria
    More in Mantua
Other places to stay

Booking through these links may earn Italia Magnifica a commission, at no cost to you.

Ossobuco alla milanese on saffron risotto, the braised shank crowned with bright gremolada around its marrow bone, red wine beside on worn wood.

A traditional dinner from Lombardy

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. Antipasto

    Spring salad with Salame di Varzi

    Mixed leaves and baby spinach meet fava beans, asparagus, young carrot ribbons and diced Salame di Varzi, dressed with a lemon citronette.

    35 min

  2. First course

    Risotto alla Milanese

    Milan’s golden risotto: Carnaroli rice, real saffron threads, good broth, and the double richness of bone marrow and butter. The city on a plate.

    50 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Ossobuco alla Milanese

    Cross-cut veal shanks braised in white wine until the marrow loosens, finished with gremolada. Milan serves it over saffron risotto; so should you.

    2 hr 25 min · make ahead

  4. Side

    Orobic polenta taragna with Branzi

    Cornmeal and buckwheat cook slowly into a soft polenta, then take in cubes of Branzi and a final spoonful of garlic-and-sage butter.

    1 hr 25 min · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Torta sbrisolona

    Mantova’s crisp almond cake, made from loose crumbs of wheat flour, yellow cornmeal, butter and lard, then broken into pieces to share.

    2 hr 5 min

  6. What to pour

    A Valtellina Superiore, Nebbiolo from the terraced slopes of Sondrio province: its acidity and fine tannin cut through the marrow and butter.

    Valtellina Superiore

Start the Ossobuco alla Milanese first: 2 hr 25 min.

Taste it there

A food stroll through central Milan

Milan · 3h 30m

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

Bellagio on its wooded headland on Lake Como, below the Lombard pre-Alps

What Lombardy is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. The bell tower and arcades of Santa Caterina del Sasso on the cliff above Lake Maggiore

    Tradition says a shipwrecked merchant built the first small church here in the 12th century, and the hermitage still clings to its sheer cliff above Lake Maggiore.

  2. The arches of the Roman villa at Sirmione above the shore of Lake Garda

    Forget the name: this is a Roman villa, 167 metres by 105, at the tip of Sirmione over Lake Garda, once so overgrown it looked like a cave.

  3. A golden wedge of Bitto cut from its wheel on a worn wooden board

    Twice a day on the Orobie pastures above Valtellina, straight after milking, cow's milk and up to a tenth goat's becomes Bitto on the spot.

The hills south of Lake Iseo

Franciacorta occupies the morainic hills south of Lake Iseo, giving Lombardy a concentrated wine-country destination. It is one part of a broader regional map that also includes Valtellina and Oltrepò Pavese. Begin with the shape of one area rather than trying to fit every landscape and wine into a single route.

Wines from Lombardy
Sources and citations (2)
  1. Zu den Weingütern
  2. /

Milanese panettone is a Christmas project that begins well before the baking day, with a mature lievito madre and two enriched doughs. For the savoury table, compare Mantuan pumpkin tortelli and Bergamo’s casoncelli rather than treating filled pasta as one interchangeable course. Choose a single method first, then plan the filling, shaping and final cooking around the time you want to eat.

  • Liguria

    Liguria is a thin ribbon of coast pressed between mountains and the sea, the birthplace of pesto and the home of the Cinque Terre.

  • Piedmont

    Piedmont lies at the foot of the mountains, where Turin's Baroque arcades give way to the fog-draped Langhe vineyards of Barolo and the snowfields of the Alps.

  • Aosta Valley

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