This is Italy with a Tyrolean accent. Pressed against the Austrian border, Trentino-Alto Adige climbs from the orchards of the Val di Non and the warm shores of northern Lake Garda to the sheer limestone walls of the Dolomites, the mountains that glow rose and amber at sunset.
The region is bilingual to its core, Italian in Trentino to the south, German-speaking South Tyrol to the north, where towns answer to two names and a single mountain culture.
The table follows suit. Speck and rye bread, canederli dumplings and apple strudel sit beside the crisp whites and Lagrein reds of the valley floors, while the orchards yield the prized Mela Val di Non and the cellars distill clear fruit grappas from pears and bilberries. In a Bolzano museum lies Ötzi, the Copper Age hunter who walked these passes 5,300 years ago.
Come in winter for the great ski arenas, or in summer and early autumn, when the high meadows flower and the orchards hang heavy.
In a Bolzano museum lies Ötzi, the Copper Age hunter who walked these passes 5,300 years ago.
When to visit Trentino-Alto Adige
Typical climate in Trento, the regional capital.
Where to base yourself
Trento
The regional capital on the Adige, an elegant city of frescoed Renaissance facades where the Catholic Church convened the Council of Trent. Buonconsiglio Castle, once the seat of the prince-bishops, holds the famous Cycle of the Months, while Renzo Piano's glass-peaked MUSE charts the science of the Alps.
The Trento guide
Bolzano
The capital of South Tyrol, Bozen in German, a city of arcaded streets and Tyrolean gables where Italian and Alpine worlds meet.
Bressanone
South Tyrol's oldest town, known in German as Brixen, set where two valleys meet beneath the vineyards of the Isarco.
Rovereto
A town on the Adige south of Trento, long a centre of the silk trade, now best known for its art.
Ortisei
The main town of Val Gardena, St.
Sleeping in Trentino-Alto Adige
Well-reviewed places to stay, each checked open, by town.
- ADLER DolomitiOrtisei
- Cavallino Bianco Family Spa Grand HotelOrtisei
- Hotel Be PlaceTrento
- Forestis DolomitesBressanone
- Hotel AlbionOrtisei
- Adv HomeBolzano
- Hotel RoveretoRovereto
- Castel HörtenbergBolzano
- AKI Family Resort PloseBressanone
- byHaller Suites & AO RestaurantBressanone
What to see first
Brenta Dolomites
The westernmost Dolomites, its towers strung together by the ledge paths of the Via delle Bocchette.
Read the guide
What to eat, and drink
- The dishCanederli in BrodoThe Dolomites’ bread dumplings, studded with speck and chives, poached and served in clear broth.
- The dishStrudel di MeleApple strudel with hand-stretched pastry, pine nuts, raisins and cinnamon, served barely warm.
- The wineAlto Adige
- The wineLagrein
From the land Formaggi di Malga, Stelvio, Puzzone di Moena, Spressa delle Giudicarie, Speck Alto Adige
Eating and drinking in Trentino-Alto Adige
Well-loved everyday tables and Michelin stars, each checked open.
- Al DiciassetteTrento · Osteria
- Pizzeria RösslBressanone · Pizzeria
- Bistrot 18zero8Trento · Osteria
- Tipico TrentoTrento · Trattoria
- Restaurant 37Bolzano · Trattoria
- KircherhofBressanone · Trattoria
- La Teglia 2.0Bolzano · Pizzeria
- Agriturismo GummererhofBressanone · Trattoria
- E-Quattro Pizza GenuineOrtisei · Pizzeria
- LöwengrubeBolzano · Osteria
Michelin-starred
- Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler ★★★
- Castel fine dining ★★
- Terra The Magic Place ★★
- Alpenroyal Gourmet ★
- Anna Stuben ★
- Apostelstube ★
- El Molin ★
- Gourmetstube Einhorn ★
- Grual ★
- In Viaggio - Claudio Melis ★
- Johannesstube ★
- Kuppelrain ★
The year in Trentino-Alto Adige
The rituals, races, and processions the region still keeps.
A letter from Italy, once a month.
The places, tables and makers we found worth your time. One email, no noise.
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