Lombardy, explored in full.

Milan sets the pace, fashion, finance and the marble forest of its Duomo, but the region spreads north into a landscape of improbable beauty. Lake Como branches between mountains hung with villas and gardens, Lake Garda widens toward the Veneto, and the Valtellina climbs into the Alps in terraces of Nebbiolo vines.

Between lake and metropolis lie the art cities, walled Bergamo on its hill, Gonzaga Mantua ringed by water, Cremona where Stradivari shaped the violin. The Lombard table is northern and generous, butter and rice over oil, risotto alla milanese stained gold with saffron, buckwheat pizzoccheri from the high valleys, and cheeses that read like a roll-call: Gorgonzola, Taleggio, Grana Padano, Bitto.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the lakes soften, the Franciacorta vineyards turn and Milan empties enough to breathe.