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Risotto alla milanese spread loose on a white plate, saffron gold with a few crimson threads on top, grated cheese and a glass of wine behind.

Risotto alla Milanese

Milan’s golden risotto: Carnaroli rice, real saffron threads, good broth, and the double richness of bone marrow and butter. The city on a plate.

  • Lombardy

The base is butter with beef marrow, which gives the Milanese version its depth, and the saffron goes in as threads bloomed in broth, added halfway so it perfumes the rice without cooking off. The mantecatura matters most: cold butter and Grana beaten in off the heat until the rice flows all’onda, in a wave.

Make ahead Cook just before serving. Divide any leftover risotto into small portions and cool it quickly, ideally within 1 hour. Refrigerate and use within 24 hours. Reheat only once, until steaming hot throughout.

Total
50 min
Prep
15 min
Cook
35 min
Serves
4

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Risotto alla Milanese

Total 50 min · Prep 15 min · Cook 35 min · Serves 4

Method

  1. Bloom the saffron threads in a cup of hot broth and keep the rest at a bare simmer beside you.

  2. Melt 30 g of butter with the marrow in a wide heavy pot and sweat the onion over low heat until translucent and sweet, never browned, about 8 minutes.Melt 1 oz (30 g) of butter with the marrow in a wide heavy pot and sweat the onion over low heat until translucent and sweet, never browned, about 8 minutes.

  3. Raise the heat, add the rice, and toast it, stirring, until the grains turn pearly and click against the pot, about 3 minutes.

  4. Pour in the wine and let it evaporate completely.

  5. Cook the risotto: add hot broth a ladle at a time, stirring often, letting each addition almost vanish before the next. After 10 minutes, stir in the saffron broth.

  6. Taste at 16 to 18 minutes: the grain should be tender with a firm soul, the whole loose and rippling. Adjust salt.

  7. Mantecatura: off the heat, add the cold butter and Grana and beat hard with the spoon until the risotto turns glossy and falls all’onda. Rest 1 minute, covered.

  8. Shake each plate flat with a tap of the palm and serve immediately.

Equipment

  • Dutch OvenWide and heavy, so the rice cooks in a shallow, even layer.2 options
    • Our pick

      Lodge Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven, 6 qt

      A heavy pot with a lid for steady, gentle cooking; choose batch sizes to fit.

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    • Le Creuset Signature Dutch Oven, 5.3L

      French enamelled cast iron that holds a low, even simmer for hours.

      Shop
  • SaucepanKeep the broth at a bare simmer right beside you; cold broth stalls the rice.2 options
    • Our pick

      All-Clad D3 Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid, 3 qt

      For heating broth or other liquids gently beside the main preparation.

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    • Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Saucepan with Cover, 3 qt

      Tri-ply stainless that heats evenly, at a friendlier price.

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  • Ladle
  • Wooden Spoon

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Estimated per serving

Calories
609 kcal
Protein
16.7 g
Carbohydrates
66.9 g
Fat
31.6 g

Per serving · 1/4 of the recipe Ingredient-based estimate; brands and preparation change the result. Stock uses a representative prepared broth; its concentration and salt vary, so sodium is not reported. Includes edible bone marrow; wine alcohol retention is estimated at 40%.

Nutrition sources: CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · USDA Agricultural Research Service · TBCA / University of São Paulo · Educazione Nutrizionale Grana Padano

Nonna's tips

  1. Infuse the saffron threads

    This version uses saffron threads. Infuse them in a little hot broth before adding them to the rice, as described in step 1. Powdered saffron also appears in published Milanese recipes.

  2. Cold butter, hard beating

    The mantecatura emulsifies starch, broth, and fat; cold butter and energy are what make the wave. Stir like you mean it.

  3. Under an ossobuco this risotto becomes Milan’s grandest plate; on its own, it wants nothing but a glass of something bubbly from Franciacorta.

What to serve with Risotto alla Milanese

A dinner from Lombardy, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Spring salad with Salame di Varzi

    Mixed leaves and baby spinach meet fava beans, asparagus, young carrot ribbons and diced Salame di Varzi, dressed with a lemon citronette.

    35 min

  2. First course

    Risotto alla Milanese

    This recipe

    50 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Ossobuco alla Milanese

    Cross-cut veal shanks braised in white wine until the marrow loosens, finished with gremolada. Milan serves it over saffron risotto; so should you.

    2 hr 25 min · make ahead

  4. Side

    Orobic polenta taragna with Branzi

    Cornmeal and buckwheat cook slowly into a soft polenta, then take in cubes of Branzi and a final spoonful of garlic-and-sage butter.

    1 hr 25 min · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Torta sbrisolona

    Mantova’s crisp almond cake, made from loose crumbs of wheat flour, yellow cornmeal, butter and lard, then broken into pieces to share.

    2 hr 5 min

  6. What to pour

    Try a Franciacorta with this saffron risotto.

    Franciacorta
Lombardy

Lombardy

Milan made it one of its De.Co. dishes in 2007, and it’s served on its own as a first course or under ossobuco as a single plate. Legend puts the first saffron rice at a 1574 wedding among the glassmakers working on the Duomo, coloured gold as a sign of wealth; a story better told than documented.

The Lombardy guide

Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

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