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Vincisgrassi lifted from an enamel baking dish on a worn spatula, the burnished square showing dark ragu and besciamella layers, corner crust trailing.

Vincisgrassi

The Marche’s grand baked pasta: silkier than lasagne, layered with a chicken-liver-enriched ragù, besciamella, and patience across two days.

  • Marche

Finely chopped chicken livers enrich the ragù during its last 20 minutes. Spread the sauces evenly between five or six thin pasta layers, then refrigerate the assembled dish overnight before baking.

Make ahead Assemble the dish the day before. Refrigerate promptly, allowing 12 hours for the overnight rest. After baking, let it stand for 15 minutes before cutting.

Total
16 hr 45 min
Prep
1 hr 30 min
Cook
3 hr
Serves
8

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Vincisgrassi

Total 16 hr 45 min · Prep 1 hr 30 min · Cook 3 hr · Serves 8

Method

  1. Make the ragù: render pancetta in the oil, soften the soffritto, then brown the beef and pork hard. Add the concentrate and wine; let it vanish.

  2. Add the broth and simmer with the lid ajar for about 2 hours, topping up as needed. Stir in the chopped livers for the final 20 minutes and cook them through to at least 74°C/165°F. Season; the sauce should be thick and spoonable.Add the broth and simmer with the lid ajar for about 2 hours, topping up as needed. Stir in the chopped livers for the final 20 minutes and cook them through to at least 165°F/165°F. Season; the sauce should be thick and spoonable.

  3. Besciamella: melt 80 g butter, whisk in flour for 2 minutes, then the milk gradually. Simmer to a coating cream; season with salt and nutmeg.Besciamella: melt 2¾ oz (80 g) butter, whisk in flour for 2 minutes, then the milk gradually. Simmer to a coating cream; season with salt and nutmeg.

  4. Blanch the pasta sheets 30 seconds in salted water, dunk in cold water, and dry flat on cloths.

  5. In a buttered deep dish: besciamella veil, pasta, ragù, besciamella, Parmigiano; repeat for 5 to 6 layers, ending with besciamella and a confident snow of cheese.

  6. Refrigerate the assembled dish promptly, covered, for 12 hours overnight. If making the ragù separately ahead, divide it into shallow containers and refrigerate within 2 hours.

  7. Bake at 180 C until burnished and bubbling at the corners, 40 to 45 minutes; rest 15 minutes before cutting.

  8. Cut generous squares and serve with nothing else on the plate; vincisgrassi shares with no one.

Equipment

  • Baking DishDeep enough for 5 to 6 layers.
  • Dutch Oven2 options
    • Our pick

      Lodge Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven, 6 qt

      A heavy pot with a lid for steady, gentle cooking; choose batch sizes to fit.

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    • Le Creuset Signature Dutch Oven, 5.3L

      French enamelled cast iron that holds a low, even simmer for hours.

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  • Saucepan2 options
    • Our pick

      All-Clad D3 Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid, 3 qt

      For heating broth or other liquids gently beside the main preparation.

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    • Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Saucepan with Cover, 3 qt

      Tri-ply stainless that heats evenly, at a friendlier price.

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  • WhiskKeeps the besciamella lump-free as the milk goes in.

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Estimated per serving

Calories
688 kcal
Protein
35.1 g
Fat
38 g

Per serving · 1/8 of the recipe Ingredient-based estimate; brands and preparation change the result. Uses fresh egg pasta, half the dish butter and 5% wine-alcohol retention. Broth and pasta-water sodium vary.

Nutrition sources: USDA Agricultural Research Service · CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · Consorzio Parmigiano Reggiano

Nonna's tips

  1. Livers are the signature

    Add the finely chopped livers in the final 20 minutes so they blend into the ragù. Check that they are fully cooked before assembling the pasta.

  2. Overnight is an ingredient

    An overnight rest makes the assembled dish convenient to bake the next day. The 15-minute stand after baking also helps the layers hold when cut.

  3. Use a deep baking dish and spread each layer evenly.

    If the top browns before the centre is hot, cover it loosely while the dish finishes baking.

What to serve with Vincisgrassi

A dinner from Marche, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Olive all’Ascolana

    Tender Ascolana Tenera olives with a three-meat filling, breaded and fried until crisp.

    2 hr 30 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Vincisgrassi

    This recipe

    16 hr 45 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Coniglio in porchetta

    Rolled rabbit from the Marche, filled with pancetta, cooked ham, liver and wild fennel, then roasted with white wine.

    2 hr 10 min

  4. Dessert

    Bostrengo

    A dense rice-and-bread cake holds dried fruit, nuts, cocoa and grated apple, with orange zest in the crumb.

    3 hr · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    A Rosso Conero, Montepulciano grown on the slopes above Ancona: its ripe fruit, spice and structure match the richness of ragù and besciamella.

    Conero
Marche

Marche

A preparation called princisgras appears in the 1779 cookbook of Antonio Nebbia, a cook from Macerata, and the popular story ties the name to the Austrian general Windisch-Graetz. It remains the Marche’s dish for feast days, and the town of Monte Urano holds a festival devoted to it.

The Marche guide

Shopping list

People at the table
8
On the table

To buy

  • Shop

Check the pantry

  • Shop

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Make vincisgrassi the baked pasta course of a Christmas menu that can begin a day ahead. This version layers a chicken-liver-enriched ragù with pasta and besciamella. Follow its overnight assembly schedule and allow the finished dish to stand before cutting; both the advance preparation and the final rest belong in your timetable.

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