Instructions
Make the ragù: render pancetta in the oil, soften the soffritto, then brown the beef and pork hard. Add the concentrate and wine; let it vanish.
30 minAdd broth to cover and simmer, lid ajar, 2 hours, topping up as needed. Stir in the chopped livers for the final 20 minutes. Season; the sauce should be dark, dense, and barely red.
140 minBesciamella: melt 80 g butter, whisk in flour for 2 minutes, then the milk gradually. Simmer to a coating cream; season with salt and nutmeg.
15 minBlanch the pasta sheets 30 seconds in salted water, dunk in cold water, and dry flat on cloths.
20 minIn a buttered deep dish: besciamella veil, pasta, ragù, besciamella, Parmigiano; repeat for 5 to 6 layers, ending with besciamella and a confident snow of cheese.
20 minRest the assembled dish, covered, overnight in the refrigerator (or at minimum 2 hours).
120 minBake at 180 C until burnished and bubbling at the corners, 40 to 45 minutes; rest 15 minutes before cutting.
60 minCut generous squares and serve with nothing else on the plate; vincisgrassi shares with no one.
Chef's Tips
- Livers are the signature: Chop them fine and add them late; long cooking turns liver bitter, short cooking leaves the ragù without its Marche accent.
- Overnight is an ingredient: The rest lets pasta, ragù, and besciamella negotiate their borders. Bake it fresh and it slides; bake it rested and it stands.
- White vincisgrassi with porcini instead of ragù rules the mountain trattorie of the Sibillini; the besciamella and method are identical.
