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Grilled arrosticini with small cubes of lamb on wooden skewers.

Arrosticini

Abruzzo’s shepherd skewers: small cubes of mutton threaded tight, grilled fast over coals, salted, and eaten by the dozen straight off the stick.

  • Abruzzo

This recipe keeps the three rules: sheep meat with its own fat, no marinade, and salt only after the grill. The choice that matters is threading the fat through the skewer at about one part fat to four parts lean, because it melts over the coals and bastes every cube. Keep the pieces evenly sized and packed tight, and use the doneness check in the method rather than judging the centres by the charred edges.

Make ahead You can thread the skewers up to a day ahead and keep them covered in the fridge; salt them only once they come off the fire.

Total
1 hr 20 min
Prep
1 hr 5 min
Cook
15 min
Serves
4

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Arrosticini

Total 1 hr 20 min · Prep 1 hr 5 min · Cook 15 min · Serves 4

Method

  1. Cut the meat and its fat into even 1.5 to 2 cm cubes, keeping roughly one part fat to four parts lean.Cut the meat and its fat into even ½ to ¾ in cubes, keeping roughly one part fat to four parts lean.

  2. Thread the cubes tightly onto thin skewers, alternating in fat every few pieces, with no air between cubes; each stick takes about 8 cubes.

  3. Light charcoal and wait for calm white embers with no flame; the ideal is a narrow bed so the stick handles ride outside the heat.

  4. Grill the arrosticini in a packed row, turning every 30 to 40 seconds. Start checking after 2–3 minutes, but let doneness decide: the edges should char lightly and a food thermometer in a thicker piece should read at least 63°C. Let the skewers rest for 3 minutes before eating.Grill the arrosticini in a packed row, turning every 30 to 40 seconds. Start checking after 2–3 minutes, but let doneness decide: the edges should char lightly and a food thermometer in a thicker piece should read at least 145°F. Let the skewers rest for 3 minutes before eating.

  5. Salt them as they come off and stack under foil so they steam tender while the next round cooks.

  6. Grill-toast the oiled bread at the fire’s edge and serve everything hot, by the dozen, with red wine in tumblers.

Equipment

  • SkewersThin 25 cm skewers; pack the cubes tight with no air between them.
  • Charcoal GrillA narrow bed of embers is the goal, so the handles ride outside the heat. A long, narrow fornacella is the Abruzzese way.
  • Chef's KnifeEven 1.5–2 cm cubes are the whole trick, so keep it sharp.Our pick
    • Our pick

      Victorinox Fibrox Pro Chef's Knife, 20cm

      For chopping and slicing the ingredients before cooking.

      Shop
  • Cutting Board
  • Kitchen ThermometerUse a thin-tip food thermometer to check the centre of a thicker piece.

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Nonna's tips

  1. Fat between the lean

    The interleaved fat is the basting system. Trim it out and you grill dry little cubes; keep it and every bite arrives glossed.

  2. No marinade, ever

    Arrosticini taste of sheep, smoke, and salt, full stop. Rosemary oil on the bread is welcome; on the meat it is treason.

  3. Without a furnacella, set two bricks on a grate to make a narrow ember channel; the skewer tips must hang past the coals or they burn before the meat does.

What to serve with Arrosticini

A dinner from Abruzzo, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Pallotte cacio e ova

    Cheese-and-egg balls with soft bread crumb, fried golden and finished in a simple tomato sauce.

    1 hr 10 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Spaghetti alla Chitarra con Pallottine

    Abruzzo’s square-cut egg spaghetti, strung through the chitarra, with tomato sauce and the region’s tiny hand-rolled pallottine.

    2 hr 30 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Arrosticini

    This recipe

    1 hr 20 min · make ahead

  4. Dessert

    Ferratelle abruzzesi (pizzelle)

    Thin Abruzzese wafers patterned in a hot iron, with olive oil, egg and lemon zest.

    55 min · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    A young Montepulciano d'Abruzzo: its soft tannins and ripe dark fruit handle the fatty, gamey mutton without turning harsh, and it is happy poured into tumblers.

    Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Abruzzo

Abruzzo

Arrosticini are small sheep-meat skewers from Abruzzo, associated with the region’s pastoral cooking. They are grilled on the furnacella, a long, narrow brazier shaped like a gutter, and eaten by the bundle at summer festivals and family cookouts.

The Abruzzo guide

Shopping list

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To buy

Check the pantry

Pack the meat closely along the skewer, leaving the handle clear.

Gloved hands threading raw meat and occasional pieces of fat onto a skewer.

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