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Risi e bisi in a deep stoneware bowl, loose spring rice thick with peas and parsley, a spoon resting in the wave and lagoon water past the window.

Risi e Bisi

Venice’s spring rite of rice and young peas, looser than a risotto, thicker than a soup, sweetened with a broth made from the pods themselves.

  • Veneto

The pods are the secret: simmered for half an hour, they make a pale green broth that carries the flavour of the peas all the way through the rice. Vialone Nano cooked just 14 to 16 minutes in plenty of that broth keeps the dish loose enough for a spoon, somewhere between a risotto and a soup.

Make ahead The pod broth can be made a day ahead and kept in the fridge; cook the rice only when you’re ready to eat.

Total
1 hr 30 min
Prep
30 min
Cook
1 hr
Serves
4

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Risi e Bisi

Total 1 hr 30 min · Prep 30 min · Cook 1 hr · Serves 4

Method

  1. Shell the peas. Simmer the rinsed pods in 1.5 liters of lightly salted water for 30 minutes, then strain, pressing; you want about 1.2 liters of pale green broth, kept hot.Shell the peas. Simmer the rinsed pods in 6⅓ cups (1.5 l) of lightly salted water for 30 minutes, then strain, pressing; you want about 5 cups (1.2 l) of pale green broth, kept hot.

  2. In a heavy pot, melt half the butter and cook the onion and pancetta gently until the onion is soft and the pancetta translucent, about 8 minutes.

  3. Add the peas and half the parsley, turn them in the fat, and ladle in enough pod broth to cover. Simmer 5 minutes.

  4. Add the rice and the rest of the hot broth. Cook at a gentle bubble, stirring now and then, until the rice is tender but composed, 14 to 16 minutes. It should stay distinctly brothy.

  5. Off the heat, beat in the remaining butter and the Grana. Adjust salt and loosen with a last splash of broth: the wave, not the mound.

  6. Rest one minute, scatter with the remaining parsley and a turn of pepper, and serve in shallow bowls with spoons.

Equipment

  • Dutch Oven2 options
    • Our pick

      Lodge Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven, 6 qt

      A heavy pot with a lid for steady, gentle cooking; choose batch sizes to fit.

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    • Le Creuset Signature Dutch Oven, 5.3L

      French enamelled cast iron that holds a low, even simmer for hours.

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  • Saucepan2 options
    • Our pick

      All-Clad D3 Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid, 3 qt

      For heating broth or other liquids gently beside the main preparation.

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    • Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Saucepan with Cover, 3 qt

      Tri-ply stainless that heats evenly, at a friendlier price.

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  • Fine Mesh SievePress the pods hard against the mesh; that's where the sweetness is.2 options
    • Our pick

      OXO Good Grips 8-Inch Double Rod Strainer

      For filtering the cooking liquid or vegetable mixture as directed in the recipe.

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    • Cuisinart Fine Mesh Strainer Set

      Three sizes of fine mesh, from sauces to dusting sugar.

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Estimated per serving

Calories
533 kcal
Protein
19.1 g
Carbohydrates
63.6 g
Fat
23 g

Per serving · 1/4 of the recipe Ingredient-based estimate; brands and preparation change the result. Counts 350g shelled peas; nutrients extracted from discarded pods are not quantified.

Nutrition sources: CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · USDA Agricultural Research Service · Educazione Nutrizionale Grana Padano

Nonna's tips

  1. The pod broth is the dish

    Water or plain stock makes a pleasant rice with peas; only the pod broth makes risi e bisi taste green all the way down.

  2. Mind the spoon test

    Serve it loose enough that a spoon dropped flat sinks slowly. If a fork would do, you have made risotto by accident.

  3. Frozen petit pois are a respectable winter understudy; skip the pod broth and use a light vegetable stock, and do not tell a Venetian in April.
  4. Pancetta is a choice, not a rule

    The recipe deposited with Venice’s Chamber of Commerce in 2013 uses onion, olive oil and butter, without pancetta. Other versions include pancetta, as this one does. Both are risi e bisi.

What to serve with Risi e Bisi

A dinner from Veneto, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Baccalà Mantecato

    Soaked stockfish is whipped with oil into a soft, fibrous cream and served with white polenta.

    1 hr 5 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Risi e Bisi

    This recipe

    1 hr 30 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Fegato alla veneziana

    Thin slices of calf liver quickly cooked with soft onions, a splash of wine vinegar and a little butter.

    45 min

  4. Dessert

    Zaleti with raisins

    Small Venetian cornmeal biscuits with raisins and lemon zest, cut into diamonds and finished with icing sugar.

    3 hr 15 min · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    A young Soave from the hills east of Verona: Garganega’s freshness and light almond note sit well with the sweet peas and the butter.

    Soave
Veneto

Veneto

Venetian tradition links risi e bisi with the Doge’s table at Palazzo Ducale on April 25, the feast of Saint Mark, Venice’s patron. Around Vicenza it’s still made with the local Lumignano peas, grown in the Colli Berici.

The Veneto guide

Shopping list

People at the table
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To buy

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