Instructions
Shell the peas. Simmer the rinsed pods in 1.5 liters of lightly salted water for 30 minutes, then strain, pressing; you want about 1.2 liters of pale green broth, kept hot.
35 minIn a heavy pot, melt half the butter and cook the onion and pancetta gently until the onion is soft and the pancetta translucent, about 8 minutes.
8 minAdd the peas and half the parsley, turn them in the fat, and ladle in enough pod broth to cover. Simmer 5 minutes.
6 minAdd the rice and the rest of the hot broth. Cook at a gentle bubble, stirring now and then, until the rice is tender but composed, 14 to 16 minutes. It should stay distinctly brothy.
16 minOff the heat, beat in the remaining butter and the Grana. Adjust salt and loosen with a last splash of broth: the wave, not the mound.
2 minRest one minute, scatter with the remaining parsley and a turn of pepper, and serve in shallow bowls with spoons.
Chef's Tips
- The pod broth is the dish: Water or plain stock makes a pleasant rice with peas; only the pod broth makes risi e bisi taste green all the way down.
- Mind the spoon test: Serve it loose enough that a spoon dropped flat sinks slowly. If a fork would do, you have made risotto by accident.
- Frozen petit pois are a respectable winter understudy; skip the pod broth and use a light vegetable stock, and do not tell a Venetian in April.
