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Aosta Valley, explored in full.

The Aosta Valley is Italy at its most vertical, a single great trench carved by the Dora Baltea and walled by the four-thousand-metre giants that mark the borders with France and Switzerland.

It is the country's smallest and least populated region, and its only officially bilingual one, where road signs read in Italian and French and the old Franco-Provençal dialect still lingers in the side valleys.

Rome left its mark first. Aosta, founded as Augusta Praetoria, still guards its triumphal arch, its theatre wall and the gridded streets of a frontier garrison. Above the valley floor, castles such as Fénis bristle on their crags, and the high meadows yield the nutty, melting Fontina that thickens a pot of fonduta. To finish, there is genepy, the bittersweet alpine liqueur distilled from mountain wormwood.

Come in winter for the skiing under Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, or in summer, when the ibex of Gran Paradiso, Italy's first national park, graze the slopes above wildflower meadows.

The Matterhorn rising over the Aosta Valley

To finish, there is genepy, the bittersweet alpine liqueur distilled from mountain wormwood.

When to visit Aosta Valley

Typical climate in Aosta, the regional capital.

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Sleeping in Aosta Valley

Well-reviewed places to stay, each checked open, by town.

Eating and drinking in Aosta Valley

Well-loved everyday tables and Michelin stars, each checked open.

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