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White and dark pine-nut pinoccate with rough cut edges on an ivory platter

Pinoccate: White and Dark Pine-Nut Christmas Sweets

Perugia’s pine-nut-and-sugar lozenges, made in a pale lemon-and-vanilla version and a dark chocolate version. Serve one of each at Christmas.

  • Umbria

Divide the sugar, glucose syrup, water and toasted pine nuts equally between the white and dark batches. Keep the lemon and vanilla for the white batch, and all the chocolate and cocoa for the dark one. Measure the syrup with a confectionery thermometer; keep hot sugar away from bare hands.

Make ahead Prepare the trays and divide the ingredients before heating the syrup. Cut while the slabs are still slightly warm, then let the pieces cool completely before wrapping. The active preparation, cooking and one-hour cooling allowance are planning estimates; pan size, room temperature and extra batches change the time needed.

Total
1 hr 40 min
Prep
20 min
Cook
20 min
Serves
8

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Pinoccate: White and Dark Pine-Nut Christmas Sweets

Total 1 hr 40 min · Prep 20 min · Cook 20 min · Serves 8

Method

  1. Line two rimmed trays with baking paper and grease the paper lightly. Divide the sugar, glucose syrup, water and toasted pine nuts equally between two batches. Set out the thermometer and heatproof spatula.

  2. For the white batch, heat its sugar, glucose syrup and water until the sugar dissolves. Bring the syrup to 120°C, measuring with the confectionery thermometer.For the white batch, heat its sugar, glucose syrup and water until the sugar dissolves. Bring the syrup to 248°F, measuring with the confectionery thermometer.

  3. Stir in the white batch’s pine nuts, the scraped vanilla seeds and the thin lemon zest. Spread in one prepared tray about 1–2 cm thick, using the spatula rather than bare hands. As soon as just warm, lift out and cut into lozenges with a smooth-bladed knife; do not wait for the dark batch.Stir in the white batch’s pine nuts, the scraped vanilla seeds and the thin lemon zest. Spread in one prepared tray about ½–¾ in thick, using the spatula rather than bare hands. As soon as just warm, lift out and cut into lozenges with a smooth-bladed knife; do not wait for the dark batch.

  4. Melt the dark chocolate gently over a water bath and mix in the cocoa. Keep it ready for the dark batch.

  5. Heat the second batch of sugar, glucose syrup and water. Bring this syrup to 120°C with the thermometer, then stir in the chocolate mixture followed by the remaining pine nuts.Heat the second batch of sugar, glucose syrup and water. Bring this syrup to 248°F with the thermometer, then stir in the chocolate mixture followed by the remaining pine nuts.

  6. Spread the dark mixture in the other lined tray, again about 1–2 cm thick. As soon as just warm, lift it out and cut into lozenges with a smooth-bladed knife before it hardens completely.Spread the dark mixture in the other lined tray, again about ½–¾ in thick. As soon as just warm, lift it out and cut into lozenges with a smooth-bladed knife before it hardens completely.

  7. Let both colours cool completely. Serve a white and a dark piece together, or wrap only after the pieces are fully cold.

Equipment

  • Confectionery thermometer
  • Saucepan
  • Heatproof spatula
  • Two rimmed trays and baking paper
  • Heatproof bowl for a water bath
  • Smooth-bladed knife
  • Kitchen scale

The dinner before Pinoccate: White and Dark Pine-Nut Christmas Sweets

A dinner from Umbria, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Torta al testo

    An Umbrian griddle flatbread with a lightly crisp surface and a firm, tender crumb, cut into wedges while warm.

    1 hr 20 min

  2. First course

    Strangozzi al Tartufo Nero

    Spoleto’s eggless ribbons under Norcia’s black truffle: grated or finely chopped, then stirred into warm garlic oil off the heat.

    1 hr 27 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Palomba alla ghiotta, home-oven version

    Farmed pigeon roasted under cover and finished in a red-wine ghiotta flavoured with chicken liver, prosciutto, herbs and juniper.

    1 hr 20 min · make ahead

  4. Side

    Lenticchie di Castelluccio in Umido

    The tiny lentils of the Castelluccio plain stewed with soffritto and sausage: Umbrian mountain food, and Italy’s New Year’s good-luck supper.

    1 hr · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Pinoccate: White and Dark Pine-Nut Christmas Sweets

    This recipe

    1 hr 40 min · make ahead

  6. What to pour

    A short coffee or plain tea accompanies a small white-and-dark pair.

Umbria

Umbria

Perugia’s Christmas sweets include pinoccate in white and dark pairs. Nearby Umbrian tables also make room for almond torciglione and fruit-filled rocciata.

The Umbria guide

Shopping list

People at the table
8
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

The story behind Pinoccate: White and Dark Pine-Nut Christmas Sweets

Pinoccate are pine-nut-and-sugar sweets associated with Perugia and the Umbrian Christmas table. Also called pinocchiate or pignoccate, they are cut into small lozenges and traditionally presented in white and dark pairs, often in bright paper wrappers. The pine nuts belong throughout the sugar mixture, rather than sitting only on top. The pale version takes lemon and vanilla; cocoa or chocolate gives the dark version its colour. This recipe makes the two batches separately, using equal shares of the sugar, glucose syrup, water and toasted pine nuts. Dark chocolate and cocoa go into one batch, while the lemon zest and vanilla scent the other. Have both lined trays and the tools ready before cooking the syrup. Work with a heatproof spatula and cut the slabs while still slightly warm: once completely cold, the sugar becomes harder to cut neatly. Let the pieces cool fully before serving or wrapping, and offer the two colours together.

White and dark pine-nut pinoccate with rough cut edges on an ivory platter

Pinoccate bring white and dark pine-nut lozenges to Perugia’s Christmas sweets table. This version cooks separate lemon-and-vanilla and chocolate batches, then cuts the slabs while still slightly warm. Let the pieces cool fully before pairing or wrapping them. Serve a small white-and-dark pair alongside almond torciglione, fruit-filled rocciata or Umbrian almond tozzetti.

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