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Cjarsons on a pale plate, crimped half-moon dumplings glossy with butter under grated smoked ricotta and a dusting of cinnamon.

Cjarsons

Carnia’s sweet-savory mountain ravioli: a potato dough filled with ricotta, herbs, raisins, and cocoa, sauced with brown butter and smoked ricotta.

  • Friuli-Venezia Giulia

This sweet-savory version uses potato dough, which gives the dumplings a soft, tender texture. The choice that matters is the smoked ricotta on top, whose salt and smoke balance the sweetness of the filling and the brown butter. Keep the flour to a minimum and the dough stays pasta rather than armor.

Make ahead Mix the filling a day ahead and keep it covered in the fridge, so shaping day is only dough and folding.

Total
2 hr 20 min
Prep
1 hr 10 min
Cook
40 min
Serves
4

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Cjarsons

Total 2 hr 20 min · Prep 1 hr 10 min · Cook 40 min · Serves 4

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes in their skins until tender, peel hot, and rice onto the board. Cool to warm.

  2. Knead the riced potato with flour and salt into a soft, barely tacky dough, like gnocchi dough that decided to behave. Rest 30 minutes under a bowl.

  3. Mix the filling: ricotta, raisins, herbs, cocoa, cinnamon, sugar, and lemon zest. Taste and adjust: it should read as sweet and lightly spiced, with the cocoa and cinnamon present but not covering the ricotta.

  4. Roll the dough 2 to 3 mm thin on a floured board and cut 7 cm rounds. Fill each with a teaspoon of ripieno, fold to a half-moon, and crimp the edge into little pleats.Roll the dough 2 to 3 mm thin on a floured board and cut 2¾ in rounds. Fill each with a teaspoon of ripieno, fold to a half-moon, and crimp the edge into little pleats.

    Fingers pleating the rim of a filled half-moon of pale dough.
    Fold the filled round in half and pinch small pleats along the rim.
  5. Poach the cjarsons in gently simmering salted water until they float and feel set, 4 to 5 minutes.

  6. Melt the butter until it just browns and smells of hazelnuts.

  7. Plate the cjarsons, spoon over the brown butter, and bury them under grated smoked ricotta and a breath of cinnamon. Serve immediately.

Equipment

  • Rolling PinOur pick
    • Our pick

      J.K. Adams Maple French Rolling Pin

      For rolling the dough by hand and controlling its thickness.

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  • Round Pastry Cutter7 cm is the size; a glass rim works in a pinch.
  • Food MillA potato ricer does the same job; either keeps the dough light.2 options
    • Our pick

      OXO Good Grips Food Mill

      For passing the cooked potatoes into a smooth mixture for the dough.

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    • Cuisipro Deluxe Food Mill

      A roomy stainless mill with a built-in scraper, good for big batches.

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  • Pasta Board
  • Box GraterSmoked ricotta grates best on the coarse holes.2 options
    • Our pick

      OXO Good Grips Box Grater

      For grating the cheese with the texture called for in the recipe.

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    • Cuisipro Surface Glide 4-Sided Box Grater

      Sharp, smooth-running faces that make short work of hard cheese.

      Shop

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Estimated per serving

Calories
637 kcal
Protein
16.5 g
Carbohydrates
73.9 g
Fat
31.3 g

Per serving · 1/4 of the recipe Ingredient-based estimate. Fresh marjoram estimated with fresh-basil leaf composition. Compact smoked ricotta uses the Livinallongo reference; local versions vary. 500 g cooked peeled potatoes assumed; extra dusting flour excluded. Cooking-water salt uptake is unknown.

Nutrition sources: USDA Agricultural Research Service · CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · Latteria di Livinallongo

Nonna's tips

  1. Smoked ricotta is the signature

    Without ricotta affumicata the dish loses its mountain accent. A hard smoked scamorza, finely grated, is the least-wrong substitute.

  2. Keep the dough soft

    Add flour only until the dough stops sticking to your palms; an overfloured dough makes armor instead of pasta.

  3. Cjarsons fillings vary between families.

    Make this sweet-savory version first, then adjust the herbs and spice to your taste.

What to serve with Cjarsons

A dinner from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Toc in braide with cheese cream

    Soft Friulian polenta with a warm three-cheese cream and morchia, toasted cornmeal in golden butter.

    50 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Cjarsons

    This recipe

    2 hr 20 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Frico con Patate

    Friuli’s golden cheese and potato cake: Montasio melted over softened potatoes and onion until the underside turns to a lacy crisp.

    1 hr 5 min

  4. Side

    Patate in tecia, Gorizia-style

    Boiled potatoes browned in a skillet with onion and pancetta, with soft centres and irregular golden edges.

    1 hr 30 min · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Presnitz

    Thin puff pastry curls around a compact filling of nuts, raisins, candied orange and dark chocolate.

    3 hr 20 min · make ahead

  6. What to pour

    A glass of Ramandolo, the Verduzzo from the hills above Nimis: fragrant, slightly tannic and not too sweet, it meets the raisins and cinnamon halfway.

    Ramandolo
Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Cjarsons belong to Carnia, in northern Friuli. PromoTurismoFVG recounts a local tradition linking their varied fillings to spices brought home by cramârs, travelling merchants. Recipes vary from valley to valley and from family to family.

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia guide

Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

The story behind Cjarsons

Cjarsons belong to Carnia in Friuli Venezia Giulia, where recipes vary from valley to valley and family to family. PromoTurismoFVG recounts a local tradition linking the fillings to spices brought home by cramârs, travelling merchants who crossed the Alps. Doughs may be made with potato or with flour and water, and fillings differ from one household to another.

Cjarsons on a pale plate, crimped half-moon dumplings glossy with butter under grated smoked ricotta and a dusting of cinnamon.

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