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The white cliff of Monte Conero over the Adriatic, Marche

Marche

Alone among Italian regions, Marche carries a plural name, and the land lives up to it: a corrugated country of parallel valleys that comb down from the Apennine spine to a long, easy Adriatic shore.

Go in May to June and September.

Fly into
Ancona (AOI)
Capital
Ancona
Size
9,401 km² (3,630 sq mi)
People
1.5 million

Between the two lie hundreds of hill towns of brick and travertine, each crowning its own ridge, so that the horizon is forever serrated with belltowers and walls.

This is the Italy of the Renaissance at its most refined and its least crowded. In Urbino, Federico da Montefeltro built one of the most civilised courts in Europe, and the city gave the world Raphael; below ground at Frasassi, nature answers with cathedral-sized chambers of stone. The Marchigiani eat well and without fuss: olive ascolane stuffed and fried, spreadable ciauscolo salami, the white Verdicchio of Jesi, and the dark cherry liqueur visciolino.

Come in summer for the opera under the stars at Macerata's Sferisterio and the swing crowds of Senigallia, or in autumn, when the vineyards turn and the coast empties to the locals.

What to see in Marche

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Urbino, Ancona, Ascoli Piceno
At least
5 nights
Within a day out
7 of these 8
Length of your trip

3 nights in Marche: Urbino for 2 and Ancona for 1.5 nights in Marche: Urbino for 2, Ancona for 1 and Ascoli Piceno for 2.7 nights in Marche: Urbino for 2, Ancona for 2 and Ascoli Piceno for 3.10 nights in Marche: Urbino for 3, Ancona for 2, Recanati for 2 and Ascoli Piceno for 3.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

UrbinoAnconaRecanatiAscoli Piceno

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Where to stay in Marche

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. Urbino

    2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Urbino

    A restored eighteenth-century farm village in the hills between Urbino and Pesaro, with a spa, organic vineyards, and horse and e-bike outings.

    Check dates: Tenuta Santi Giacomo e Filippo
    More in Urbino
  2. 70 km from Urbino as the crow flies

    Ancona

    1 night2 nights

    Hotels in Ancona

    A restored noble palace in Ancona with harbour or rooftop views from every room, and a boutique feel with a strong wine focus.

    Check dates: Grand Hotel Palace
    More in Ancona
  3. 25 km from Ancona as the crow flies

    The hometown of the poet Giacomo Leopardi gave Italian literature one of its most loved lyrics.

    Day out
    Loreto · Macerata · Fermo

    On the Colle dell'Infinito, the hedge and horizon that inspired his poem L'Infinito are still there to be walked, poetry made place.

  4. 85 km from Ancona as the crow flies

    60 km from Recanati as the crow flies

Other places to stay

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Sliced rabbit roll with ham, pancetta, liver and herb filling.

A traditional dinner from Marche

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. Antipasto

    Olive all’Ascolana

    Tender Ascolana Tenera olives with a three-meat filling, breaded and fried until crisp.

    2 hr 30 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Vincisgrassi

    The Marche’s grand baked pasta: silkier than lasagne, layered with a chicken-liver-enriched ragù, besciamella, and patience across two days.

    16 hr 45 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Coniglio in porchetta

    Rolled rabbit from the Marche, filled with pancetta, cooked ham, liver and wild fennel, then roasted with white wine.

    2 hr 10 min

  4. Dessert

    Bostrengo

    A dense rice-and-bread cake holds dried fruit, nuts, cocoa and grated apple, with orange zest in the crumb.

    3 hr · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    A Rosso Conero, Montepulciano grown on the slopes above Ancona: its ripe fruit, spice and structure match the richness of ragù and besciamella.

    Conero

Start the Vincisgrassi the day before: 16 hr 45 min, most of it waiting.

Taste it there

Hunt truffles, then make pasta

Ascoli Piceno · 3h 30m

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

White limestone cliffs and a pebble beach on the Conero riviera

What Marche is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. Brick arches receding through the flooded chambers of the Roman cisterns under Fermo

    Stand on the east side of Fermo's Piazza del Popolo and thirty vaulted Roman rooms lie under your feet, the reservoir that once held the town's drinking water.

  2. The octagonal Tempio del Valadier under the rock vault at Genga

    Leo XII, born in Genga, wanted it here: an eight-sided temple of white travertine tucked into a rock shelter at the mouth of the Frasassi caves.

Two places for Verdicchio

Verdicchio offers two distinct starting points in Marche: the Castelli di Jesi and Matelica names belong to separate denominations. Around Esanatoglia, vineyards form part of the landscape associated with Verdicchio di Matelica. Choose one local area and read its towns with the cultivated land around them, rather than treating the grape name as a complete itinerary.

Wines from Marche
Sources and citations (4)
  1. Vini IGP italiani
  2. Marche: tourism guide (2017)
  3. Esanatoglia
  4. Vini DOP italiani

The year in Marche

The rituals, races, and processions the region still keeps.

  1. August 12 – 24, 2027Rossini Opera FestivalPesaro

Frustingo gives a Christmas table from the Marche a dense sweet of dried figs and nuts. Vincisgrassi and Ancona’s stockfish offer two substantial savoury directions: one depends on a layered baked preparation, the other on rehydrated fish and slow cooking. Read the methods before choosing the centre of the meal, and leave the more demanding preparations their own time in the kitchen.

  • Umbria

    Umbria is the green heart of Italy, a landlocked country of hilltop towns, Franciscan silence, and black truffles.

  • Abruzzo

    Italy's wild green heart, where wolves and bears still roam national parks beneath the Apennines' highest peaks.

  • Tuscany

    Tuscany is the landscape the rest of the world pictures when it imagines Italy.

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