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A round pan of browned rice, potatoes and mussels with a portion removed.

Tiella Barese

Bari’s layered bake of rice, potatoes, and mussels: raw layers, mussel water, and an oven doing all the work. Its resemblance to paella is often put down to centuries of Spanish rule in Puglia, though no one can prove the link.

  • Puglia

Opening the mussels raw is the choice that makes this tiella: they cook once, in the oven, and their strained water becomes the liquid the rice drinks. Rice scattered raw among the shells, potatoes above, and water brought just to the top layer give you a bronzed crust with separate grains beneath. Then let it rest; it is better warm than hot.

Make ahead Bake it an hour or two before the meal: it is meant to settle at room temperature, so the wait only helps.

Total
2 hr 20 min
Prep
50 min
Cook
1 hr 10 min
Serves
6

One step at a time, with what each step needs.

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Tiella Barese

Total 2 hr 20 min · Prep 50 min · Cook 1 hr 10 min · Serves 6

Method

  1. Open the raw mussels over a bowl with a short knife, keeping the meat on one half shell and every drop of water. Strain the water through fine cloth.

  2. Oil the tiella (or a deep round dish). Layer the onion, half the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, a third of the potatoes; season lightly.

  3. Arrange the mussels on their shells face up in one proud layer. Rain the rice into every gap and over the shells.

    A hand scattering raw rice across open mussel half-shells in a shallow pan.
    Scatter the rice across the open mussels and into the gaps between their shells.
  4. Cover with the remaining potatoes in overlapping slats, the rest of the tomatoes, pecorino, breadcrumbs, pepper, and the rest of the oil.

  5. Pour the strained mussel water plus enough plain water down the side to just reach the top layer without flooding it.

  6. Bake at 200 C until the top is bronzed and the rice tender when probed at the centre, 60 to 70 minutes; tent with foil if the crust races ahead.

  7. Rest 20 minutes. Serve warm, or at room temperature, digging to the bottom with every spoonful.

Equipment

  • Baking DishA terracotta tiella if you can find one; any deep round ovenproof dish works.
  • Paring KnifeA short, sturdy blade for prying mussels open; an oyster knife is even better.
  • Fine Mesh SieveLine it with cheesecloth to catch every grain of sand.2 options
    • Our pick

      OXO Good Grips 8-Inch Double Rod Strainer

      For filtering the cooking liquid or vegetable mixture as directed in the recipe.

      Shop
    • Cuisinart Fine Mesh Strainer Set

      Three sizes of fine mesh, from sauces to dusting sugar.

      Shop
  • Mandoline · OptionalFor even 5 mm potato slats that cook through with the rice.

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Estimated per serving

Calories
547 kcal
Protein
20.6 g
Carbohydrates
75.1 g
Fat
19.4 g
Fiber
4.1 g

Per serving · 1/6 of the recipe Ingredient-based estimate; brands and preparation change the result. Assumes 480g mussel flesh from 1.5kg shell-on mussels. Sodium is omitted because the retained mussel liquid varies.

Nutrition sources: CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · USDA Agricultural Research Service

Nonna's tips

  1. Raw mussels, real liquor

    This version opens the mussels raw and saves their liquor for the rice. Work carefully with a suitable shellfish knife, or ask your fishmonger to open them.

  2. Water to the brim, not over

    The rice drinks what you give it. Flood the dish and the bottom turns porridge; the level should kiss the top layer and no more.

  3. For this recipe, keep the listed layers and check that the rice is tender before taking the tiella out of the oven.

What to serve with Tiella Barese

A dinner from Puglia, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Friselle pugliesi

    Twice-baked durum-wheat rings with a rough, crisp cut face, briefly moistened and topped with tomato and oregano.

    4 hr 20 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Tiella Barese

    This recipe

    2 hr 20 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Polpo alla pignatta

    Salento octopus slowly stewed with tomatoes, onion and parsley, then uncovered to concentrate its juices.

    2 hr 35 min · make ahead

  4. Dessert

    Pasticciotto

    An oval Salento pastry with a golden lard shortcrust and a smooth vanilla custard filling, baked in individual molds.

    3 hr 20 min · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    A Castel del Monte rosato made from Bombino Nero, from the Murgia inland of Bari: fresh and fruity, it handles mussels, pecorino and tomato all at once.

    Castel del Monte Bombino Nero
Puglia

Puglia

Riso, patate e cozze belongs to the seafaring kitchen of Bari, as much at home at a family Sunday lunch as at a holiday dinner with guests. It comes out of the oven and settles at room temperature before anyone digs in.

The Puglia guide

Shopping list

People at the table
6
On the table

To buy

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Check the pantry

  • Shop
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