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Alpenglow over the high peaks of the Valle d'Aosta

Aosta Valley

The Aosta Valley is Italy at its most vertical, a single great trench carved by the Dora Baltea and walled by the four-thousand-metre giants that mark the borders with France and Switzerland.

Go in June to September for hiking, December to March for skiing.

Capital
Aosta
Size
3,261 km² (1,259 sq mi)
People
123,000

It is the country's smallest and least populated region, and its only officially bilingual one, where road signs read in Italian and French and the old Franco-Provençal dialect still lingers in the side valleys.

Rome left its mark first. Aosta, founded as Augusta Praetoria, still guards its triumphal arch, its theatre wall and the gridded streets of a frontier garrison. Above the valley floor, castles such as Fénis bristle on their crags, and the high meadows yield the nutty, melting Fontina that thickens a pot of fonduta. To finish, there is genepy, the bittersweet alpine liqueur distilled from mountain wormwood.

Come in winter for the skiing under Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, or in summer, when the ibex of Gran Paradiso, Italy's first national park, graze the slopes above wildflower meadows.

What to see in Aosta Valley

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Aosta
At least
3 nights
Length of your trip

3 nights in Aosta Valley: Aosta for 3.5 nights in Aosta Valley: Courmayeur for 2 and Aosta for 3.7 nights in Aosta Valley: Courmayeur for 2, Aosta for 3 and Cogne for 2.10 nights in Aosta Valley: Courmayeur for 3, Aosta for 4 and Cogne for 3.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

CourmayeurAostaCogne

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Where to stay in Aosta Valley

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. The grande dame of Italian alpine resorts, set in the shadow of Mont Blanc at the head of the valley.

    A family-run hotel steps from Courmayeur's pedestrian Via Roma, with a breakfast of local products and home-baked cakes.

    Check dates: Hotel Bouton d'Or
    More in Courmayeur
  2. 30 km from Courmayeur as the crow flies

    Aosta

    3 nights4 nights

    Hotels in Aosta

    The regional capital, founded by Augustus as Augusta Praetoria in 25 BC and still laid out on its Roman grid.

    Day out
    Fénis

    A small guesthouse in the historic centre with Alpine wooden furniture and a daily breakfast buffet, handy for exploring Aosta on foot.

    Check dates: Le Rêve Charmant
    More in Aosta
  3. 15 km from Aosta as the crow flies

    Cogne

    2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Cogne

    A mountain village on the doorstep of the Gran Paradiso, Italy's first national park, where ibex and chamois roam the high valleys.

    Day out
    Bard

    A family-run mountain hotel in Cogne with a large spa and several restaurants of its own, close to the Gran Paradiso park.

    Check dates: Bellevue Hotel & Spa
    More in Cogne
Other places to stay

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Thin slices of carbonada with onions and pancetta beside polenta.

A traditional dinner from Aosta Valley

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. First course

    Seupa à la Vapelenentse

    Valpelline’s baked soup layers white bread and Fontina, softened with cabbage broth and finished with melted butter and cinnamon.

    1 hr 20 min · make ahead

  2. Main course

    Carbonada Valdostana

    Thin slices of beef cook briefly with onion, pancetta, butter and dry white wine; serve them with hot polenta.

    55 min · make ahead

  3. Dessert

    Tegole Valdostane

    Thin hazelnut and almond cookies with a crisp edge and a light, lacy centre.

    1 hr 35 min · make ahead

Start the Tegole Valdostane first: 1 hr 35 min.

Taste it there

A full meal on foot through Aosta

Aosta · 3h 30m

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

The Matterhorn under snow from the Italian side, above Breuil-Cervinia

What Aosta Valley is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. Low stone arches running the length of the Roman gallery under Aosta

    Two aisles of travertine piers wrap three sides of Aosta's old Roman forum, and no one is fully sure what the gallery was for.

  2. The Paradisia garden path and timber fence in Valnontey, peaks beyond

    At 1,700 metres in Valnontey, under the peaks of the Gran Paradiso, some 1,000 mountain species grow in a garden named for one white lily.

  3. A cut wedge and wheel of Fontina with a thin brown rind

    From June to September the cows graze up to 2,700 metres, and Fontina Alpeggio is made right there at the alp, straight after milking.

Vines along the Dora Baltea

In the Aosta Valley, viticulture occupies particular slopes rather than one continuous plain. Around Arvier, stone terraces and carefully exposed vineyards follow the Dora Baltea valley. Begin with that small-scale landscape: walls, aspect and the work of keeping vines on a slope make the wine country visible before a bottle is opened.

Wines from Aosta Valley
Sources and citations (2)
  1. Wineries
  2. Donnas

Build an Aosta Valley Christmas visit around a town base and the market’s actual opening day. At home, thin tegole make a smaller baking project, while caffè alla valdostana has its own preparation and serving vessel, the many-spouted coppa dell’amicizia. Open the methods before deciding how they fit your table; mountain activities need a separate check of local conditions and equipment.

  • Piedmont

    Piedmont lies at the foot of the mountains, where Turin's Baroque arcades give way to the fog-draped Langhe vineyards of Barolo and the snowfields of the Alps.

  • Lombardy

    Lombardy runs from Milan's glass towers to the long fingers of the Italian Lakes and the snowfields of the Valtellina.

  • Liguria

    Liguria is a thin ribbon of coast pressed between mountains and the sea, the birthplace of pesto and the home of the Cinque Terre.

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