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Plain focaccia genovese with olive-oil dimples, sea salt and an airy crumb.

Focaccia Genovese

The fügassa of Genoa: a finger-dimpled sheet bread baked with an olive oil and salt-water brine until the surface shines and the crumb stays plush.

  • Liguria

Finger dimples hold the water, olive oil and salt salamoia as the focaccia bakes. The hollows stay pale and soft while the ridges turn golden. Tear it while warm.

Total
3 hr 3 min
Prep
30 min
Cook
18 min
Serves
8

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Focaccia Genovese

Total 3 hr 3 min · Prep 30 min · Cook 18 min · Serves 8

Method

  1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 280 ml lukewarm water. Mix into the flour with 40 ml oil, then the salt, and knead 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough.Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 1¼ cups (280 ml) lukewarm water. Mix into the flour with 2¾ tbsp (40 ml) oil, then the salt, and knead 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough.

  2. Oil the dough, cover, and rise until doubled, about 1 hour somewhere warm.

  3. Generously oil a 30 by 40 cm rimmed tray. Stretch the dough to fill it, flip once so both faces are oiled, cover, and rest 30 minutes.Generously oil a 30 by 15¾ in rimmed tray. Stretch the dough to fill it, flip once so both faces are oiled, cover, and rest 30 minutes.

  4. Dimple with conviction: fingers straight, pressing to the metal, in close rows. Whisk 50 ml water with 30 ml oil and 4 g salt and pour this salamoia over the whole surface.Dimple with conviction: fingers straight, pressing to the metal, in close rows. Whisk 3½ tbsp (50 ml) water with 2 tbsp (30 ml) oil and 4 g salt and pour this salamoia over the whole surface.

    Fingertips pressing dimples into a tray of raw focaccia dough.
    Press deep dimples into the dough with your fingertips.
  5. Final rise, uncovered, 45 minutes; the brine should still sit in the dimples.

  6. Bake at 230 C until deep gold with pale valleys, 15 to 18 minutes. The bottom should sound dry when tapped.

  7. Brush with a last thread of oil, slide onto a rack so the base stays crisp, and tear into slerfe while warm.

Equipment

  • Baking SheetA 30 by 40 cm rimmed tray; dark metal gives the crispest base.
  • Mixing Bowl
  • Kitchen ScaleBread rewards weighing, down to the 4 g of salt in the brine.Our pick
    • Our pick

      Escali Primo Digital Kitchen Scale

      For weighing flour, water and the other dough ingredients.

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  • Cooling RackMoving the focaccia off the hot tray keeps the base crisp.

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Estimated per serving

Calories
301 kcal
Protein
7.1 g
Carbohydrates
46 g
Fat
10.8 g
Fiber
1.5 g

One eighth of the recipe. Includes the listed 90 ml of oil, using FAO density data; excludes any extra finishing oil. Values vary with oil left in the tray.

Nutrition sources: CREA Centro di ricerca Alimenti e Nutrizione · USDA Agricultural Research Service

Nonna's tips

  1. The brine is not optional

    Pouring water on bread dough feels wrong once. After the first bite of what it does to the crumb, it feels like a secret you were finally told.

  2. Dimple to the metal

    Shy dents vanish in the oven. Press until you feel the tray; the holes are structural, not decorative.

  3. For breakfast, try a piece with cappuccino: the salty bread makes a pleasant contrast to the milk.

What to serve with Focaccia Genovese

A dinner from Liguria, built around this dish. Change any course and the shopping list follows.

  1. Antipasto

    Focaccia Genovese

    This recipe

    3 hr 3 min

  2. First course

    Trofie al Pesto Genovese

    Ligurian trofie with basil pesto, potatoes and green beans, dressed off the heat.

    45 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Cima alla genovese

    A veal-belly pocket filled with eggs, veal, brains, peas and herbs, gently poached and pressed cold before slicing.

    9 hr 45 min · make ahead

  4. Dessert

    Pandolce genovese basso

    A low Genoese Christmas loaf with raisins, candied citrus, pine nuts and orange blossom water, lifted with baking powder.

    3 hr 20 min · make ahead

  5. What to pour

    Serve a Ligurian Vermentino with the warm focaccia.

    Vermentino
Liguria

Liguria

Genoese focaccia fits breakfast, lunch and aperitivo. For this home version, give the dough time to rise, press deep dimples with your fingertips and pour the salamoia over the surface before baking.

The Liguria guide

Shopping list

People at the table
8
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

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