Order the sewn pocket and prepared brains from a butcher. Leave space inside for expansion and plan for prompt cooling followed by pressing in the refrigerator.
Make ahead Prepare on the day before serving, cooling promptly and pressing under refrigeration. The center must be thoroughly cold before slicing.
Cima alla genovese
Prep 45 min · Cook 3 hr · Rest 6 hr · Serves 8 · Difficulty Hard
Method
For larger quantities, order separate pockets of the original size and divide the filling between them. Use separate pots or cooking runs as needed; keep the same doneness and rapid-cooling checks for every pocket. Order the veal belly as a roomy pocket sewn on three sides, leaving one opening. Have the butcher clean the brains. Soak the dried mushrooms in their warm water for about 20 minutes, then drain, rinse away grit and chop. Soak the bread in its milk. Keep the meat and offal refrigerated until needed.For larger quantities, order separate pockets of the original size and divide the filling between them. Use separate pots or cooking runs as needed; keep the same doneness and rapid-cooling checks for every pocket. Order the veal belly as a roomy pocket sewn on three sides, leaving one opening. Have the butcher clean the brains. Soak the dried mushrooms in their warm water for about 20 minutes, then drain, rinse away grit and chop. Soak the bread in its milk. Keep the meat and offal refrigerated until needed.
Finely chop the filling onion, carrot, veal and brains. Soften the onion and carrot in the oil and butter. Add the chopped meats, peas, drained mushrooms, pine nuts, garlic and marjoram. Stir over moderate heat, then fold in the beaten eggs, milk-soaked bread, grated Parmigiano and filling salt. Add the wine and cook gently until it has evaporated and the eggs are softly set, about 20 minutes for the whole pan stage.Finely chop the filling onion, carrot, veal and brains. Soften the onion and carrot in the oil and butter. Add the chopped meats, peas, drained mushrooms, pine nuts, garlic and marjoram. Stir over moderate heat, then fold in the beaten eggs, milk-soaked bread, grated Parmigiano and filling salt. Add the wine and cook gently until it has evaporated and the eggs are softly set, about 20 minutes for the whole pan stage.
Let the filling stop steaming just enough to handle it. Spoon it loosely into the pocket, filling no more than two-thirds of its available space. Leave room for expansion and sew the opening securely with kitchen twine. If any filling remains, cook it separately until its center reaches 75°C for 30 seconds rather than forcing it into the pocket. Proceed directly to cooking.Let the filling stop steaming just enough to handle it. Spoon it loosely into the pocket, filling no more than two-thirds of its available space. Leave room for expansion and sew the opening securely with kitchen twine. If any filling remains, cook it separately until its center reaches 167°F for 30 seconds rather than forcing it into the pocket. Proceed directly to cooking.
Put the poaching water, whole onion, whole carrot, celery and broth salt in the large pot. Warm it, then immerse the stuffed pocket while the water is still warm. Bring slowly to a gentle simmer; allow about 40 minutes for this heating stage. Add only enough extra hot water to keep it covered.Put the poaching water, whole onion, whole carrot, celery and broth salt in the large pot. Warm it, then immerse the stuffed pocket while the water is still warm. Bring slowly to a gentle simmer; allow about 40 minutes for this heating stage. Add only enough extra hot water to keep it covered.
Poach gently for about 2 hours with the lid partly open, avoiding a rolling boil. Check with a clean probe that the thickest filling reaches 75°C for 30 seconds; continue if necessary. Lift out carefully and remove the twine once it can be handled.Poach gently for about 2 hours with the lid partly open, avoiding a rolling boil. Check with a clean probe that the thickest filling reaches 167°F for 30 seconds; continue if necessary. Lift out carefully and remove the twine once it can be handled.
Cool promptly on a shallow metal tray set over an ice bath, without letting the bath water touch the meat. Refrigerate within 1–2 hours; do not leave the whole pocket cooling under a weight overnight at room temperature. If it is not cooling promptly, cut it into smaller portions rather than keeping it warm for the sake of presentation.Cool promptly on a shallow metal tray set over an ice bath, without letting the bath water touch the meat. Refrigerate within 1–2 hours; do not leave the whole pocket cooling under a weight overnight at room temperature. If it is not cooling promptly, cut it into smaller portions rather than keeping it warm for the sake of presentation.
While refrigerated, cover with a clean board and a light weight of about 1 kg. Allow about 5 hours, and longer if needed, until thoroughly cold and firm. Remove the weight, slice and serve cold with salad or steamed vegetables.While refrigerated, cover with a clean board and a light weight of about 2¼ lb. Allow about 5 hours, and longer if needed, until thoroughly cold and firm. Remove the weight, slice and serve cold with salad or steamed vegetables.
