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Pale, flour-dusted cavallucci with irregular folds on a paper-lined baking tray

Cavallucci: Sienese Christmas Biscuits

Pale Sienese Christmas biscuits with walnuts, candied orange and anise, held together by a warm sugar syrup. This home batch makes about 40 small cavallucci.

  • Tuscany

Prepare the dry ingredients and trays before heating the sugar. A sugar thermometer gives a clear stopping point without touching hot syrup. The stated thread-stage temperature is for sea level; at altitude, use a locally adjusted candy-temperature guide. Shape only when the dough is safe to handle, using flour sparingly so the biscuits retain their characteristic texture.

Make ahead Leave enough time for complete cooling before packing. Place the cold biscuits in a clean, dry tin, separating layers with baking paper. Label a gift with its preparation date and full ingredients, including wheat and walnuts. The cooling allowance is a planning estimate; a warm biscuit should not be enclosed.

Total
1 hr 42 min
Prep
30 min
Cook
12 min
Yield
40 small cavallucci

Cavallucci: Sienese Christmas Biscuits

Total 1 hr 42 min · Prep 30 min · Cook 12 min · Yield 40 small cavallucci

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 160°C. Line two baking trays with baking paper and dust lightly with flour. Chop the walnuts and orange peel, then combine them with the flour, baking powder, anise, cinnamon and cloves in a heatproof bowl.Heat the oven to 325°F. Line two baking trays with baking paper and dust lightly with flour. Chop the walnuts and orange peel, then combine them with the flour, baking powder, anise, cinnamon and cloves in a heatproof bowl.

  2. Dissolve the sugar in the water in a saucepan over gentle heat. Bring to the thread stage, about 110–112°C on a sugar thermometer at sea level. Stop before the syrup darkens. Keep the hot syrup away from bare skin; do not test it between your fingers.Dissolve the sugar in the water in a saucepan over gentle heat. Bring to the thread stage, about 230–233.6°F on a sugar thermometer at sea level. Stop before the syrup darkens. Keep the hot syrup away from bare skin; do not test it between your fingers.

  3. Take the pan off the heat. Add the dry mixture and work it together with a strong wooden spoon. Transfer carefully to a lightly floured work surface using the spoon or a heatproof scraper. Leave briefly until safe to handle; the dough will still be sticky.

  4. With floured hands, shape the warm dough into a log. Divide into small, even pieces. Roll gently into small balls, flatten slightly and pinch into rough ovals. Dust lightly with flour and space out on the prepared trays.

  5. Bake for about 12 minutes at 160°C. Keep the surface pale: the outside should form a light crust while the biscuits remain soft when first removed. If the trays cannot sit on the same oven level, bake them in separate batches.Bake for about 12 minutes at 325°F. Keep the surface pale: the outside should form a light crust while the biscuits remain soft when first removed. If the trays cannot sit on the same oven level, bake them in separate batches.

  6. Leave the cavallucci to settle on the trays before moving them to a rack. Let them cool completely: they become firmer as they cool. Allow roughly one hour for cooling, extending it if the centres remain warm.

Equipment

  • Sugar thermometer
  • Saucepan and strong wooden spoon
  • Heatproof bowl and scraper
  • Two baking trays and baking paper
  • Scale reading 0.1 g
  • Cooling rack

The story behind Cavallucci: Sienese Christmas Biscuits

Cavallucci belong to Siena’s Christmas baking alongside panforte and ricciarelli. Walnuts and small pieces of candied orange interrupt their pale, floury surface; anise gives the dough its most recognisable aroma. They are compact biscuits, with an irregular outline and a firmer bite after cooling. Their character comes from the concentrated sugar binder and the mixture of fruit, nuts and spice, rather than from butter or eggs. The name means “little horses”, but these biscuits are not shaped like animals. The story behind the name is uncertain. Pellegrino Artusi included cavallucci in recipe 619 of La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene, giving a home approximation of the Sienese sweet rather than claiming to reproduce a bakery’s guarded method. Flour, sugar, walnuts, candied orange, anise and spices form the core of that recipe. Here a small amount of baking powder lightens the home dough. Keep the anise seeds distinct from star anise, and weigh the spices instead of estimating heaped spoonfuls. Small, similarly sized biscuits make the short bake easier to control. Their pale finish matters: waiting for deep golden colour produces a harder result. They fit a Christmas sweets plate or a small tin to share, with the ingredients identified for anyone receiving them.

Pale, flour-dusted cavallucci with irregular folds on a paper-lined baking tray
Tuscany

Tuscany

In Siena, put cavallucci beside panforte and ricciarelli to explore three very different Christmas textures: floury biscuit, dense fruit-and-nut cake and soft almond sweet. A small biscuit is enough to show the anise and candied-orange character.

The Tuscany guide

What to pour

A small glass of sweet Vin Santo suits the walnuts and candied orange. Unsweetened tea or water offers an alternative without adding another sweet flavour.

Vin Santo

At Christmas, set a few cavallucci beside panforte and ricciarelli for three contrasting Sienese sweets. Bake them pale, let them cool completely and identify the wheat and walnuts when giving a tin. Their anise and candied-orange flavour also fits the Epiphany sweets table.

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