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The Aragonese castle of Le Castella on its islet, Calabria

Calabria

Calabria occupies the long, mountainous toe of the Italian peninsula, washed on one side by the Tyrrhenian and on the other by the Ionian, with the Strait of Messina narrowing toward Sicily.

Go in May to June and September, for warm sea and lighter crowds.

Fly into
Lamezia Terme (SUF), Reggio Calabria (REG)
Capital
Catanzaro
Size
15,222 km² (5,877 sq mi), about the size of Connecticut
People
1.8 million

Two great uplands define its interior: the high pine forests and lakes of the Sila, where snow falls in the deep south, and the rugged Aspromonte rising steeply behind the coast. Between them lie 800 kilometers of shoreline, from the cliffs of Tropea to the fishing houses of Scilla.

This is one of Italy's oldest inhabited corners, settled by Greeks who left their mark from Reggio to Crotone, the city of Pythagoras. The Calabrese character is proud and fiercely hospitable, and the table runs hot, with 'nduja, the spreadable chilli salami, alongside soppressata, Caciocavallo Silano cheese and the citrus that grows nowhere else as it does here, the bergamot of Reggio and the great cedri of the Tyrrhenian coast.

Come in late spring or early autumn, when the sea is warm, the mountains are walkable and the coastal towns belong to those who linger.

What to see in Calabria

Save the ones you want and we'll find which of our routes reaches the most in the fewest nights.

The short answer

Where to sleep
Cosenza, Tropea, Scilla, Gerace
At least
10 nights
Within a day out
7 of these 8
Length of your trip

3 nights in Calabria: Tropea for 2 and Scilla for 1.5 nights in Calabria: Tropea for 3 and Scilla for 2.7 nights in Calabria: Cosenza for 2, Tropea for 3 and Scilla for 2.10 nights in Calabria: Cosenza for 2, Tropea for 3, Scilla for 3 and Gerace for 2.

Add your first day and each link opens on that stop's dates.

CosenzaTropeaScillaGerace

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Where to stay in Calabria

Each stop with what to see and, where we have them, a day out and the hotel we'd book.

  1. An ancient inland city below the Sila, its old town climbing a hillside in a tangle of stepped lanes.

    The cathedral, consecrated before Frederick II in 1222, holds the tomb of Isabella of Aragon and anchors the medieval centro storico.

  2. 75 km from Cosenza as the crow flies

    Tropea

    2 nights3 nights

    Hotels in Tropea

    Calabria's most famous resort, a cliff-top old town poised above white-sand beaches and clear Tyrrhenian water, with Stromboli smoking on the horizon.

    Day out
    Pizzo

    A nine-room bed and breakfast on Largo Migliarese in Tropea's historic centre, near the cathedral, with a terrace and breakfast included.

    Check dates: La Dolce Vita in Tropea
    More in Tropea
  3. 50 km from Tropea as the crow flies

    Scilla

    1 night2 nights3 nights

    Check dates in Scilla

    The rock of Homer's sea monster, where the Ruffo castle stands on a cliff above the Strait of Messina.

    Below it lies Chianalea, a fishing quarter whose houses rise straight from the water, with swordfish boats moored at the doorsteps.

  4. 45 km from Scilla as the crow flies

    A medieval borgo perched like an eagle's nest above the Ionian plain, its lanes opening onto Calabria's largest Romanesque cathedral.

    Day out
    Stilo

    Consecrated under the Normans in 1045, it rests on a forest of ancient columns.

Other places to stay

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Calabrian stuffed eggplant

A traditional dinner from Calabria

Every course is one the region actually serves. Change any of them and the wine, the timing and the shopping list follow.

  1. Antipasto

    Olive ammaccate, dressed for the table

    Calabrian-style cracked green olives dressed with olive oil, garlic, chili and oregano, using ready-cured olives for a quick antipasto.

    15 min · make ahead

  2. First course

    Fileja alla ’Nduja

    Calabria’s rod-rolled pasta in a sauce of melting ’nduja: Spilinga’s fiery spreadable salume dissolved into tomatoes until the heat glows instead of burns.

    1 hr 35 min · make ahead

  3. Main course

    Melanzane ripiene alla calabrese

    Eggplant shells filled with their own soft flesh, bread, egg and pecorino, then browned in the oven.

    1 hr 40 min · make ahead

  4. Side

    Patate ’mpacchiuse with Tropea onion

    Thin potato slices cooked with red onion in a covered skillet, then browned in soft, lightly clinging layers.

    1 hr · make ahead

  5. Dessert

    Tartufo di Pizzo with a cocoa centre

    Hazelnut and chocolate gelato shaped around a soft cocoa centre and finished with a dry dusting of cocoa.

    11 hr 55 min · make ahead

  6. What to pour

    A Cirò Rosso, made from Calabria's Gaglioppo grape: it has the structure and acidity to meet the chile without the alcohol tasting hot.

    Ciro

Start the Tartufo di Pizzo with a cocoa centre the day before: 11 hr 55 min, most of it waiting.

Taste it there

Cook in the hills above Tropea

Tropea · 4h 30m

Check dates

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Shopping list

People at the table
4
On the table

To buy

Check the pantry

The sanctuary of Santa Maria dell'Isola on its rock at Tropea

What Calabria is known for

You will find these here and nowhere else.

  1. The brick domes and front of the Cattolica di Stilo at sunset

    Seven metres a side, five brick domes, four Roman columns, one upside down: the Cattolica has sat above Stilo for about a thousand years.

  2. Bergamots on a linen cloth, one halved

    That scent in your Earl Grey is bergamot, and Calabria grows more of it than anywhere on earth, on the coast from Scilla to Monasterace.

Green vineyard rows on the Librandi estate

Cirò and the Ionian wine country

Cirò provides a focused introduction to Calabria’s wine geography, with Gaglioppo an important red grape of the area. Farther south, Greco di Bianco belongs to a different territory around Bianco and Casignana. Keep those places distinct: wine offers a way to read Calabria through local names rather than one uniform coastal landscape.

Wines from Calabria
Sources and citations (2)
  1. Regione Calabria Turismo / wine and territory
  2. Regione Calabria Turismo / wine and territory

Pitta ’mpigliata brings the Christmas baking of San Giovanni in Fiore and the Sila into view, with open pastry roses and a dried-fruit filling. Soriano’s honey mostaccioli offer another shape and method; Mammola’s stockfish preparation gives the savoury table a different centre. Choose the dishes you want to make, then read each recipe’s preparation state and timing before combining them into a meal.

  • Basilicata

    Basilicata, the ancient Lucania, is Italy's least-visited mainland region, a wild interior of stone towns crowned by Matera and its cave-carved Sassi.

  • Puglia

    Puglia is the long, sun-bleached heel of Italy's boot, ribboned by 800 kilometers of coast and silver olive groves.

  • Sicily

    Sicily is the great triangular island where every civilization that ever crossed the Mediterranean left something behind, with Mount Etna smoking above it all.

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