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Toasted fregula in light clam broth with open clams and parsley.

Fregula con arselle

Toasted Sardinian fregula in a light clam broth, with garlic, white wine and parsley.

  • Sardinia

Choose live, commercially depurated clams from a traceable supplier. In Sardinian cooking, arselle commonly means vongole: use carpet-shell clams, not cockles. Keep chilled until cooking.

Prep
20 min
Cook
30 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Medium

Fregula con arselle

Prep 20 min · Cook 30 min · Serves 4 · Difficulty Medium

Method

  1. Discard clams with broken shells and any open clams that do not close when tapped. Rinse the sound clams under cold running water and drain. Keep refrigerated at 4°C or below until the pan is ready.Discard clams with broken shells and any open clams that do not close when tapped. Rinse the sound clams under cold running water and drain. Keep refrigerated at 40°F or below until the pan is ready.

  2. Warm the oil and garlic in the wide pan for 1 minute without coloring the garlic. Add the clams and wine, cover and cook over medium-high heat for 5–7 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice, until the shells open. Discard any that stay closed.Warm the oil and garlic in the wide pan for 1 minute without coloring the garlic. Add the clams and wine, cover and cook over medium-high heat for 5–7 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice, until the shells open. Discard any that stay closed.

  3. Lift the clams into a bowl. Remove most from their shells, keeping a few shell-on for serving. Filter all the cooking liquor through the lined sieve into the saucepan, leaving the gritty last spoonful behind.Lift the clams into a bowl. Remove most from their shells, keeping a few shell-on for serving. Filter all the cooking liquor through the lined sieve into the saucepan, leaving the gritty last spoonful behind.

  4. Add 800 ml of the hot water to the clam liquor and bring to a simmer. Add the fregula and cook uncovered for the packet time, usually 15–20 minutes, stirring often. Add the remaining hot water gradually to keep the grains submerged and the finish brothy.Add 3⅓ cups of the hot water to the clam liquor and bring to a simmer. Add the fregula and cook uncovered for the packet time, usually 15–20 minutes, stirring often. Add the remaining hot water gradually to keep the grains submerged and the finish brothy.

  5. When the fregula is tender with a little bite, return the clams and their collected juices. Simmer for 1 minute until hot, then stir in the parsley. Taste before adding any of the reserved salt. Serve immediately with the shell-on clams on top.When the fregula is tender with a little bite, return the clams and their collected juices. Simmer for 1 minute until hot, then stir in the parsley. Taste before adding any of the reserved salt. Serve immediately with the shell-on clams on top.

Nonna's tips

  1. Filter the cooking liquor

    A lined sieve catches fine sand. Do not pour the sediment at the bottom of the clam pan into the pasta.

The story behind Fregula con arselle

Fregula is Sardinian semolina pasta formed into small irregular grains, dried and toasted. Around Cagliari, its pairing with arselle brings the coast into the bowl. The clam liquor gives this brothy version its depth; garlic, wine and parsley keep the seasoning clear and light.

Toasted fregula in light clam broth with open clams and parsley.
Sardinia

Sardinia

Around Cagliari, toasted fregula meets clam liquor in a brothy first course.

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