Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome: Visit

Where: Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome
Best for: Fifth-century mosaics
Allow: 1 hour
Basilica entry: Free

Santa Maria Maggiore stands on Rome’s Esquiline Hill and is one of the city’s four papal basilicas. Inside Santa Maria Maggiore, the nave’s long colonnade draws the eye toward a sequence of mosaics whose different dates are central to understanding the building.

The mosaics in the nave and triumphal arch date to the pontificate of Sixtus III (432–440). On the nave walls, one side follows Abraham and Jacob, while the other follows Moses and Joshua; the triumphal arch’s largely preserved cycle tells the story of Christ’s childhood. The apse belongs to a later moment: Pope Nicholas IV commissioned its mosaics from Jacopo Torriti. Their subjects and dates give the nave, arch and apse different roles in the interior.

The floor and ceiling extend that layered view in different directions: the central nave has a Cosmatesque pavement and a gilded timber coffered ceiling designed by Giuliano and Antonio da Sangallo. The church remains an active place of devotion. The Salus Populi Romani is kept in the Pauline Chapel; its traditional attribution to Saint Luke is devotional tradition, not established authorship. In 1954, the icon was carried in procession from here to St Peter’s Basilica for its coronation. Pope Francis’s tomb is in the left aisle between the Pauline and Sforza Chapels.

Two objects associated with the Nativity also have separate settings. Five pieces of sycamore wood venerated as the Holy Crib are kept in the Confessio before the Papal Altar. Arnolfo di Cambio’s marble Nativity, commissioned in 1291, is presented in the Liberian Museum. The traditional account that an August snowfall revealed the basilica’s site is recalled each year with falling white petals, keeping the story visible as tradition.

The nave of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, with marble columns leading to the high altar — Ionic marble columns march toward the high altar under a gilded ceiling.

Look closer

The Cosmatesque marble floor of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome — The Cosmatesque floorDiscs of porphyry and granite framed in tiny marble mosaic, worn smooth by centuries of feet.

The gilded coffered ceiling of the nave of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome — The coffered ceilingLook straight up: deep coffers and gold rosettes run the full length of the nave.

The Baroque front of Santa Maria Maggiore with its loggia and Romanesque bell tower — The loggia and bell towerA Baroque loggia in pale travertine, with the tall Romanesque bell tower rising behind it.

Three things worth finding

If you see nothing else, see these.

Nave and triumphal-arch mosaics
The fifth-century nave cycles follow Abraham and Jacob on one side, Moses and Joshua on the other; the largely preserved arch cycle depicts Christ’s childhood.Central nave and triumphal arch
Torriti’s medieval apse
Pope Nicholas IV commissioned Jacopo Torriti’s apse mosaics, a later layer distinct from the fifth-century nave and arch.Apse
Salus Populi Romani
The Marian icon is housed in the Pauline Chapel. Its traditional attribution to Saint Luke should be understood as devotional tradition.Pauline Chapel

Plan your visit

Basilica entry: Free
Booking: Check basilica entry conditions; museum visits use the official ticket portal.
Time needed: 1 hour
Best time: Choose your visit around the current liturgical calendar and allow time for security screening. Keep conversation quiet inside this working church.
Getting there: Use the visitor entrance on Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, 00185 Rome. Check the basilica’s official map and current local transport when planning your approach.
Accessibility: A dedicated ramp serves the Basilica entrance. Ask staff for mobile ramps to the side chapels and directions to accessible toilets. The museum complex has a lift. Before visiting the panoramic terraces or archaeological area, arrange access directly and check the entire route for your needs. Museum enquiries: visitemuseo.smm@basilica.va.

Basilica entry is listed as free by the basilica. Museum entry is separate: the official “Ingresso AREE MUSEALI Singoli” product lists €7.50 full price and €4.50 reduced, including the Loggia of Blessings, Hall of Popes, Bernini staircase and Liberian Museum, without a guide. These rates were checked on 17 October 2026 for a 20 October visit; confirm current rates and eligibility in the official portal. Terraces and the Underground Experience are separate products. Follow the basilica’s current entry, worship and security arrangements.

Look first along the nave for the fifth-century mosaics, then compare them with Torriti’s later apse. The museum is a separate visit for Arnolfo di Cambio’s 1291 Nativity; the Holy Crib relic is in the Confessio before the Papal Altar.

Official website

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Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome, Italy

Good to know

Which mosaics date to the fifth century?

The mosaics in the central nave and on the triumphal arch date to the pontificate of Sixtus III (432–440). The arch’s largely preserved cycle depicts Christ’s childhood; Torriti’s apse mosaics are a later medieval commission.

Where are the Salus Populi Romani and Pope Francis’s tomb?

The icon is in the Pauline Chapel. Pope Francis’s tomb is in the left aisle between the Pauline and Sforza Chapels.

Where are Arnolfo’s Nativity and the Holy Crib relic?

They are in different places: Arnolfo di Cambio’s 1291 marble Nativity is displayed in the Liberian Museum, while the five wood pieces venerated as the Holy Crib are in the Confessio before the Papal Altar.

What should I wear, and can I bring luggage?

Cover shoulders and knees and remove hats, following the basilica’s dress rules. Security screening is in use; large bags, suitcases and backpacks may be refused, and there is no cloakroom. Plan to leave bulky luggage elsewhere before visiting.

Is entry to the Basilica free, and do you need to book?

The basilica lists free church entry. The museum complex and other visitor experiences have separate tickets: use the official Visits page to choose the right product and check current booking conditions. The museum product reviewed here covers the loggia, Hall of Popes, Bernini staircase and Liberian Museum; terraces and the archaeological experience are separate.

How much time should I allow?

Allow about an hour as a planning estimate for the church interior and chapels. Add time for the separately ticketed museum or other visitor experiences.