A clear guide to wool from fleece to fabric, explaining fibre structure, woollen and worsted routes, micron measurements, composition labels and condition-led care.
What the word wool identifies
Wool begins with the fleece of sheep. On an EU composition label, the regulated name “wool” covers sheep or lamb fleece and a specifically defined mixture with hairs from listed animals. “Cashmere” has its own entry for hair from the Kashmir goat. These names identify fibre sources, rather than a grade of cloth.1,2,3
A scaled, crimped fibre
Wool is made mainly of keratin, a protein. Its overlapping surface scales and natural crimp help explain why a bent fibre can recover its shape and why moisture, heat and movement may cause fibres to interlock and felt. Wet wool is also weaker, a useful distinction when deciding how to handle a textile.1,4
Two routes from fleece to yarn
First, scouring removes grease, dirt and plant matter; carding then opens and separates the fibres. For worsted yarn, combing aligns longer fibres and removes shorter ones before spinning. The resulting yarn can be used in smooth, lightweight fabrics. Woollen spinning generally uses carded, shorter fibres without combing, producing fuller yarns and bulkier cloth. These are different routes through the same material, rather than grades of a finished garment.5,6
The essentials
- Family
- Sheep's fleece, a keratin fibre
- Forms
- fleece, staple fibre, sliver or top, woollen yarn, worsted yarn, knitted textile, woven textile, felt
- Properties
- a keratin protein fibre, overlapping scales and natural crimp, weaker when wet, felts with moisture, heat and agitation, the finished piece depends on yarn structure and finish
