Pistachios

The kernels have green interiors and thin skins that can be purple-brown. Those natural tones need no bright green coating. For cannoli, a coarse chop gives a clear contrast with soft ricotta. The same unsalted kernels can move between sweet and savory cooking without bringing a snack seasoning into the dish.

Natural shelled pistachios are neither salted nor roasted. Buy them whole when you want to control the size of the pieces. Chop with a knife for a garnish, keeping some small pieces rather than reducing everything to a powder. Pistachio cream is a separate preparation and does not replace chopped nuts.

Press chopped pistachios lightly onto the exposed ricotta at the ends of a filled cannolo, then serve promptly. They also suit gelato, other desserts and savory pasta or fish dishes. Prepare the quantity you need and keep the rest of the kernels whole until another use.

Look for shelled, unsalted pistachios, and check that the pack is unroasted when a recipe specifies natural nuts. Read the origin on the label: generic pistachios are not automatically Sicilian or a protected Bronte product. Buy a named protected-origin product only when you specifically want that provenance; it is not required for an ordinary chopped garnish.

For regular use, keep the kernels in a tightly closed packet or container in a cool, dry cupboard. For longer storage, use an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer, following the package’s instructions. Close the container promptly after taking out a portion.