Linen: From Flax Fibre to Fabric

From the flax stem to linen yarn and cloth, each stage shapes the textile. Learn how preparation, fabric structure, fibre labels and condition affect the way linen is described and cared for.

Plant, fibre, cloth

Flax is a bast fibre from the stem of Linum usitatissimum. Once made into yarn and fabric, it is called linen. English distinguishes the fibre from the finished textile; Italian uses lino for the plant, the fibre and the cloth.^[1,2,3,4,5]

Separating the fibre

The useful fibre has to be freed from the woody flax stem. In the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp’s account of field retting, soil microorganisms break down pectic substances that bind fibre to stem. Scutching then separates the fibres mechanically from the woody shives.^[6,7]

From yarn to fabric

Hackling combs and aligns prepared flax into ribbons, which can be twisted into yarn. Linen yarn may be woven or knitted; weaving methods change the fabric’s appearance and texture, while knitting gives the yarn a different structure. “Linen” alone does not name one particular weave.^[6]

The essentials

Family: Plant bast fibre
Forms: flax fibre, flax yarn, woven linen, knitted linen
Properties: absorbent when new, quick-drying when new, low resilience, creases easily, varies with age, processing, structure and finish

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Linen: From Flax Fibre to Fabric

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