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Caciocavallo di Agnone

Caciocavallo di Agnone

Molise's stretched-curd cheese, DOP protected.

Photograph · Caciocavallo di Agnone

The story

What you're tasting

Caciocavallo di Agnone DOP is Molise's signature stretched-curd cheese, produced exclusively in specific municipalities in the province of Isernia, particularly in Agnone. This stretched-curd cheese is made from whole cow's milk (or a mix of cow's and sheep's milk) and aged for extended periods (minimum 60 days, often 3-6 months or longer), developing complex, savory flavors and a firm, smooth texture that makes it ideal for table use and cooking. The cheese's name derives from "caciocavallo," referring to the stretched-curd cheese tradition, and "Agnone," referring to the town where the tradition developed.

Caciocavallo di Agnone represents centuries of Molise cheesemaking tradition, with production methods documented since the Middle Ages. The cheese's name derives from "caciocavallo," referring to the stretched-curd cheese tradition (from "cacio," meaning cheese, and "cavallo," meaning horse, referring to the traditional method of hanging cheeses over a beam like a saddle), and "Agnone," referring to the town in the Isernia province where the tradition of producing this stretched-curd cheese developed. Historical records from the Renaissance period document the production of stretched-curd cheeses in the Agnone area, where the rich pastures and dairy traditions created ideal conditions for cheesemaking. The tradition of producing Caciocavallo di Agnone in the Agnone area became central to the cheese's character, with the distinctive terroir of the area creating flavors that reflect the Molise landscape. The cheese gained particular importance in Agnone and surrounding areas, where it became an essential component of local cuisine and a symbol of Molise cheesemaking tradition. The 20th century saw the formalization of production methods, with local cheesemakers establishing consistent techniques for creating the stretched-curd cheese that would become Caciocavallo di Agnone. The establishment of the Caciocavallo di Agnone Consortium in 2011 marked a significant step toward protecting the cheese's name and methods, while the DOP designation, granted in 2011, codified the production regulations, geographic boundaries (restricted to specific municipalities in the Isernia province), and quality standards that ensure Caciocavallo di Agnone maintains its traditional character. Today, Caciocavallo di Agnone stands as a symbol of Molise cheesemaking excellence, with production centered in the designated municipalities while maintaining the traditional methods and distinctive character that have defined it for centuries.

Aged cheese wheels against a stone wall

Know it

Before you buy

Say it
kah-cho-kah-VAHL-loh dee ah-NYOH-neh
Tasting
Complex, savory, and nutty with firm, smooth texture. Distinctive stretched-curd character with balanced flavor. Becomes increasingly complex and savory with extended aging.
Milk
Cow (or mixed)
Texture
semi-hard
Aging
60 days-6+ months
How to buy
Look for the DOP seal and distinctive pear shape. Check for proper texture and smooth rind. Buy from reputable cheesemongers who can verify Agnone area origin.
Spot the fakes
Verify the DOP markings. Check for proper texture—should be firm and smooth. Beware of generic "Caciocavallo" without DOP designation or proper origin verification.
Keep it
Unopened: 60 days-6+ months. After opening: 3-4 weeks if properly stored.

The making

How it's made

Caciocavallo di Agnone production follows traditional stretched-curd methods that have been refined over centuries in Molise, beginning with fresh, whole cow's milk (or a mix of cow's and sheep's milk) from the designated production zone. The milk is heated in traditional copper cauldrons and coagulated using calf rennet, creating a firm curd that is cut into pieces to expel whey. The curd is then heated to approximately 38-42°C while being continuously stirred, a process that further expels whey and prepares the curd for stretching. The curd mass is then lifted from the whey and placed in a hot water bath, where it is worked and stretched by hand (pasta filata method), creating the characteristic smooth, elastic texture of Caciocavallo di Agnone. The stretched curd is then shaped into the traditional pear shape (pera) and tied at the top with string, creating the distinctive form that allows the cheese to be hung for aging. The cheeses are then brined in salt solution for several days, which helps develop flavor and preserve the cheese. After brining, the cheeses are transferred to aging rooms where they are hung from beams (traditionally like a saddle over a horse, hence "caciocavallo") and mature for a minimum of 60 days, though most are aged 3-6 months, with premium examples aged longer for increased complexity. During aging, the cheeses are regularly turned and monitored, with the rind developing a smooth, pale yellow to golden exterior while the interior gradually develops complex flavors. The extended aging allows for the development of complex flavors through enzymatic breakdown, with the cheeses developing savory, nutty, and sometimes piquant notes that reflect the distinctive character of Molise milk. Each wheel is tested by expert graders who evaluate quality through visual inspection, aroma, and texture. Wheels that pass inspection receive the DOP markings, while those that don't meet standards are sold without the protected designation. The finest examples showcase the unique character of Molise cheesemaking, with complex, savory flavors and firm, smooth texture that make Caciocavallo di Agnone ideal for both table use and cooking.

Caciocavallo di Agnone is essential to Molise cuisine, particularly in the Agnone area. It represents centuries of Molise cheesemaking tradition and the region's commitment to exceptional stretched-curd cheesemaking.