Blue Cheeses

Italian blue cheeses, known as formaggi erborinati (herbed cheeses, referring to the mold's herb-like appearance), represent a distinctive category of Italian cheesemaking where controlled mold development creates characteristic blue-green veining and complex, tangy flavors. Gorgonzola DOP is Italy's most famous blue cheese, with production methods refined over centuries.

Blue cheese production in Italy dates to at least the Middle Ages, when cheesemakers in the Po Valley discovered that certain aging conditions—particularly in natural caves with high humidity and air circulation—encouraged the growth of beneficial molds that created unique flavors and textures. Gorgonzola, named after the town in Lombardy where it was traditionally produced, has been documented since the 9th century, though the blue-veined version likely developed later as cheesemakers learned to encourage mold growth through strategic piercing and controlled aging environments. The tradition of creating blue cheeses developed in regions with ideal aging conditions—cool, humid environments that allowed molds to develop while preventing undesirable spoilage. The DOP designation for Gorgonzola, established in 1996, protects both the production methods and the geographic boundaries, ensuring that only cheeses made in specific provinces of Lombardy and Piedmont using traditional techniques can bear the name. Other regional blue cheeses, while less famous than Gorgonzola, represent local traditions of encouraging mold development through various techniques, from natural cave aging to controlled piercing with needles to introduce air and encourage Penicillium growth.

Blue cheese production begins with high-quality milk—typically cow's milk for Gorgonzola, though some regional varieties use sheep's or goat's milk. The milk is heated and coagulated using natural rennet, then the curd is cut and drained to create the desired moisture content. For Gorgonzola, the curd is not fully drained, leaving higher moisture that supports mold development. The curd is then placed in molds and pressed, creating wheels that are salted and transferred to aging rooms. The critical step for blue cheese development is the introduction and encouragement of Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum molds, which can occur naturally in traditional aging environments or be added as a culture. The cheeses are then pierced with long needles or skewers, creating channels that allow air to reach the interior, where the molds develop and create the characteristic blue-green veining. During aging, which typically lasts 2-6 months for Gorgonzola (longer for more intense varieties), the cheeses are regularly turned and monitored, with the rind developing a characteristic appearance and the interior developing increasing complexity. The molds break down proteins and fats, creating the distinctive tangy, sharp flavors and creamy, sometimes crumbly textures that define blue cheeses. Temperature and humidity are carefully controlled throughout aging, with traditional producers maintaining conditions that have been refined over generations. The finest examples balance the creamy, rich base with the sharp, tangy notes from mold development, creating cheeses of remarkable complexity and depth.

Blue cheeses are essential to Italian cuisine, particularly in Lombardy and Piedmont, where Gorgonzola is used in risottos, pasta sauces, and as a table cheese with honey and fruit.