Cashmere care: what to do and what to avoid

Start with the care instructions for the exact garment. “Cashmere” on a fibre-composition label identifies a material; it does not tell you whether a particular knit, woven wrap, lined jacket or trim can be washed at home. The makers’ own guidance shows why: Loro Piana’s Cedar Crewneck is pure cashmere, yet its product-specific care guidance still directs owners to check the garment label. Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere shirt jacket combines cashmere with a lining and calfskin details and its product-specific care instructions say not to wash it. Follow the instructions attached to your piece; if they are missing or unclear, ask the maker or a qualified cleaner before wetting it.^[1,2,3]

There is no single washing interval for every cashmere sweater. For its Cedar Crewneck, Loro Piana suggests avoiding consecutive-day wear and gives hand-washing guidance after four or five wears. Johnstons of Elgin recommends hand-washing knitted cashmere after three to four wears. These are product-maker recommendations, not a universal timetable. Between wears, let a sweater air and rest; when it needs cleaning, use the method on its own label.^[1,4]

For a hand-washable knit, use the maker’s method rather than a generic recipe. Johnstons recommends lukewarm water and a small amount of cashmere detergent: soak briefly, squeeze gently without wringing or stretching, then rinse several times in water at the same temperature. Loro Piana’s Cedar Crewneck guidance instead specifies washing separately or with similar colours, rolling the garment in a towel to remove excess water, then drying it flat between soft towels away from direct sunlight. Both makers advise careful handling; neither example overrides your garment’s own label.^[1,4]

Small pills can form as loose cashmere fibres rise to the surface. Johnstons recommends using a cashmere comb after the first few wears. Lay the garment flat and work gently over the pills; do not pull them from the yarn. Stop if the comb catches or the fabric looks weak, and ask a knitwear repair specialist about a snag, hole or broken thread.^[4]

Before putting knitwear away for the season, make sure it is clean and fully dry. The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute notes that soiled garments attract moths and recommends folding knits rather than hanging them; Johnstons likewise advises folding cashmere and storing it clean and dry. A drawer or breathable garment bag keeps a sweater supported. For a long rest, choose a cool, dry, dark place with air circulation and check the garment and storage area periodically for signs of insects.^[4,5,6]

Woven cashmere and garments with linings, leather or delicate finishes may need a different service from a plain washable knit. The CCMI’s general guidance is to dry-clean woven cashmere; Johnstons also recommends professional cleaning for woven pieces such as scarves, stoles and coats. Check the individual label first, then choose a cleaner experienced with the garment’s materials. For historic or fragile textiles, the Canadian Conservation Institute advises consulting a qualified textile conservator rather than trying a home wash.^[2,4,5,6]

Cashmere names a fibre, not a cleaning programme. Begin with the care label on the exact piece, then read its shape. Johnstons of Elgin separates knitted cashmere from woven scarves, stoles and coats in its own care guidance; it describes professional dry cleaning as useful for woven pieces. This distinction matters when the wardrobe contains both a soft jumper that can be reshaped flat and a structured coat whose lining, seams and form raise different questions. The manufacturer's permitted method decides the next move.^[4]

A small pill is a surface question, not a signal to wash the entire garment. A mark on a lined coat is not the same problem as refreshing a plain knit. Before acting, note where the issue is, whether the piece is knitted or woven, and what the label actually permits. That short pause protects the shape that made the garment worth keeping.^[4]