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Hermitage of Sant'Onofrio al Morrone

The cliffside hermitage where Celestine V lived before becoming, and quickly abandoning, the papacy.

  • Sulmona
  • Church
Where
Sulmona
Best for
Celestine V's hermit years
Allow
1 hour

Pietro Angelerio, later Pope Celestine V, first settled on this cliff ledge above Sulmona around 1239, drawn to a hermit's life on Monte Morrone years before history caught up with him.

It did, dramatically, in 1294, when King Charles II of Anjou climbed the mountain himself to tell the hermit he had just been elected pope, an episode still commemorated at the hermitage. Celestine's papacy lasted barely four months before he abdicated, the only pope in history to resign voluntarily in the medieval period, and he returned briefly to monastic life before his successor, Boniface VIII, had him imprisoned at Fumone, where he died in 1296. The hermitage that shaped him survives with fifteenth-century frescoes, an original wooden ceiling, and a barrel-vaulted church, reachable only by a steep path from the hamlet of Badia.

Four things worth finding

If you see nothing else, see these.

  1. The church’s wooden ceiling15th century

    A notable wooden ceiling above a barrel-vaulted nave, with two modern altars.Inside the church

  2. The 15th-century frescoes15th century

    Remains of frescoes of Christ the King and Saint John the Baptist.Church walls

  3. The portico and courtyard

    A portico leads to a small court facing the churchyard, high on the cliff above the Sulmona basin.In front of the church

  4. The oratory chapel

    A small chapel reached through an arch at the rear of the church, the quiet heart of the hermitage.Beyond an arch at the back of the church

Plan your visit

Everything you need before you go.

Booking
No booking needed
Time needed
1 hour
Best time
A cool morning, given the steep climb from Badia up to the hermitage
Getting there
A steep marked path climbs from the hamlet of Badia, on the eastern edge of the Valle Peligna near Sulmona; sturdy shoes are recommended.
Accessibility
The only approach is a steep mountain path; not accessible to wheelchairs.

Time the climb for morning light and look back often: the view over the Valle Peligna opens up gradually and is easy to miss if you keep your eyes only on the path.

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Good to know

How long should you spend at the Hermitage of Sant’Onofrio al Morrone?

Allow about an hour, counting time at the hermitage itself and a rest after the climb. The church and chapel are small, so the walk is most of the effort. Go in the cool morning.

How hard is the climb to Sant’Onofrio al Morrone?

Steep. A marked path climbs from the hamlet of Badia on the eastern edge of the Valle Peligna, and there is no other access. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and choose a cool day.

Is the Hermitage of Sant’Onofrio worth visiting?

Yes, for the story and the setting. This is where Pietro Angelerio, later Pope Celestine V, lived as a hermit before becoming the only medieval pope to resign. The cliff ledge above Sulmona is dramatic and quiet.

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