Preparazione
Nick the membrane around each shank in three places so they stay flat, tie them, season, and dust lightly with flour.
10 minBrown the shanks in half the butter in a wide heavy casserole, 4 minutes a side, and set aside.
10 minLower the heat, add the remaining butter, and soften the onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt until sweet, about 10 minutes.
10 minReturn the shanks, pour in the wine, and let it bubble down by half.
5 minAdd hot broth to come two thirds up the meat. Cover with the lid ajar and braise at the gentlest simmer, turning once, until a fork twists freely in the meat, about 1 hour 45 minutes. Top up with broth if the sauce tightens too far.
105 minMix the gremolada: lemon zest, parsley, and garlic, chopped together at the last minute.
4 minScatter the gremolada over the shanks, shake the pot, and give it 3 final minutes, uncovered, for the perfume to wake the sauce.
3 minServe each shank over saffron risotto or soft polenta, sauce spooned around, marrow spoon on the plate.
Consigli dello Chef
- In bianco is the old way: Tomato crept in during the twentieth century. Try the white version at least once: the gremolada shines brighter without it.
- Gentle fire, patient lid: A braise that boils turns shanks stringy. Bubbles should rise like a question, one or two at a time.
- The marrow is the cook’s tax: tradition says it belongs to whoever stirred the pot, eaten on a crust of bread with salt.
